Tag Archives: Abbey Falls

Gushing about Waterfalls

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ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY go on a waterfall trail across India to chronicle the Legends of the Falls

Niriang waterfall Meghalaya DSC00927_Anurag Mallick

With the advent of the monsoon, India’s many waterfalls revive into gushing torrents. Many are named after the closest village – like Jog (Gersoppa) in Karnataka or Amboli and Vihigaon in Maharashtra. Some are named after their appearance – Dhuandhar in Madhya Pradesh or Hogenakkal after hogey nakkal (smoke stones) on account of the rising mist. There are still others that are labeled after the creatures that frequent them – Bear Shola Falls in Kodaikanal, Hirni (Doe Falls) in Jharkhand, Chitrakot in Chhattisgarh (after chital or spotted deer) or Puliaruvi (Tiger Falls) in Courtallam. However, in a country where mountains and rivers are steeped in fables, can waterfalls be far behind? Here, we showcase some unique falls whose waters hide legends of kings, sages, gods, mortals and maidens…

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Dudhsagar (Goa)
Legends recount the tale of the princess who used to bathe in a scenic nook of the Khandepar River, a tributary of the Mandovi. After her bath, she would sit with her attendants, and drink a tumbler of sweetened milk. Once, on hearing voices in the woods, a prince stumbled upon the waterfall. To protect her modesty, the princess upturned the tumbler of milk and the water became milky and fell down as Dudhsagar (Ocean of Milk). The waterfall – India’s fifth highest – plummets 310 m off a lofty ridge bisected by a railway track and a scenic bridge!

Access: Trek from Braganza Ghat near Castle Rock while staying at Off the Grid Camp at Poppalwadi or Dudhsagar Resort at Mollem, 14km away

Jet Airways flies to Dabolim

Nohkalikai falls at Cherrapunjee

Nohkalikai (Meghalaya)
One of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Khasi Hills of Meghalaya, Nohkalikai drops from misty cliffs into an aquamarine pool. However, its natural beauty hides a sinister tale. In the village of Rangjirteh, from where the stream passes, there once lived a poor lady called Ka Likai. When she gave birth to a child, her husband passed away. In due course, she got married again. However, her new husband did not love the child and often got angry with Ka Likai for not taking proper care of him. One day when she was away to carry iron ore, he killed the child, cut the body into pieces and prepared a curry. He tossed the head and bones away but forgot to dispose the fingers he had hidden in the betelnut basket. When the lady returned and enquired about the child, the man said he had gone out to play and excused himself. She relished the rice and curry, thinking it to be meat from a sacrifice in the village. However when she reached for some betelnut, she stumbled upon the fingers. Letting out a terrible shriek, she grabbed her dao (machete), ran out and threw herself off the precipice. From that time, the waterfall was known as Noh Ka Likai or the Fall of Ka Likai.

Access: At Cherrapunjee, 60 km from Shillong; track the monsoon while staying at Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort

Jet Airways flies to Guwahati

Irpu Falls Coorg_Anurag Mallick

Irpu (Karnataka)
It is believed that in their conquest to Lanka, the brothers Rama and Lakshmana were crossing over the Brahmagiri Hills from Kodagu to Kerala. In a rare display of disobedience, Lakshmana felt a sudden surge of anger, returned his bow and arrows to his elder brother and stormed off. Oddly, the moment he stepped into Kodava land, his anger dissipated. Rama, walked up to Lakshmana, carrying a lump of earth from Kerala and explained that Kerala’s earth was Parashuram Kshetra, reclaimed by the sage after several bloody carnages against kshatriyas, and thus incited passions. Overcome by remorse, Lakshmana shot an arrow into the Brahmagiri mountain and threatened to fling himself into the flames that shot forth. Rama created the Lakshmana Teertha, extinguished the fire and blessed its waters with the power to absolve a person of his sins. Some believe it was Lakshmana’s tears of remorse that became the Lakshmana Teertha. Oddly, irpu in Sanskrit means ‘enemy’ – a place that made enemies even out of brothers. Even now, in Coorg when brothers fight, they ascribe it to this legend.

Access: A 5 min walk from the Irpu Rameshwara temple at the base of the Brahmagiri mountains in Coorg, stay at Ramcad Estate or other homestays

Jet Airways flies to Bangalore and Mangalore

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Bheem nadi (Uttarakhand)
After the Mahabharata war, the Pandavas renounced their kingdom and headed to the Himalayas to atone for all the bloodshed. At Dharali, the Pandavas took a bath in the river to remove the sin of hatya (murder) and thus the stream was called Hatyaharini. While going to Manasarovar, Bhima’s horse allegedly left its hoofmarks on a rock, which can be seen even today at Mukhwa. Locals believe that Bhima created a waterfall (Bhim nadi or Bhim Ganga) by shooting an arrow into the mountain to quench the thirst of the Pandavas. The niche where he supposedly rested a knee to take aim, still exists besides the image of a sleeping horse. Even today, cows and mules step into the same hoof prints while walking up the mountain. Village boys from Mukhwa often lead you to the jharna, where quartz stones, called moti patthar by the villagers due to their pearl colour, can be found around the waterfall.

Access: Stay at Leisure Hotels’ Char Dham Camp at Dharali and cross the bridge on the Ganga to Mukhwa, from where the waterfall is a short hike away.

Jet Airways flies to Delhi and Dehradun

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Courtallam/Kutralam (Tamil Nadu)
It is believed that after separating from his wife Kaveri, Sage Agastya headed further south and climbed the loftiest mountain to meditate. Named Agasthiyar Malai, it is from the hill’s lofty heights that the Chittar River dashes down through roots and herbs as Kutralam Falls. Tagged as the Natural Spa of the South, (or Kuttralam Courtallam) Falls is the collective name for a diverse cluster of nine waterfalls. Peraruvi (Main Falls) plummets from a height of 120ft with people of all ages jostling for a good shower. In what appears like a mega community bathroom, fully clothed women cluster to the right, the elderly and children stay to the left and oiled men of all shapes and sizes brave the full force of the central torrent. The gentler Chittaruvi Falls is close by. Spreading like the hood of a five-headed serpent is Aintharuvi (Five Falls) 5km from the Main Falls with a shrine dedicated to Ayyanar Shastha. Around 6.5km from the Main Falls is Pazhaya Courtallam (Old Falls) with the ancient Thirukoortalanatheeshwara (Lord of the Peaks) shrine at the foothills. The conch-shaped temple has a stunning Chitra Sabha (one of the famous Pancha Sabhas) with beautiful mural paintings and wood carvings housing a Nataraja deity. A mile-long trek from Main Falls up the mountain leads to Shenbaga Devi Falls, after a temple nearby. Puckle’s Path, named after the District Collector who laid it in the 1860s, leads to Thenaruvi  (Honey Falls), alluding to the honeycombs garlanding the overhanging rocks. Puliaruvi (Tiger Falls), once the watering hole of the big cats, has bathing ghats for pilgrims visiting the Pashupathi Shashta Temple. Pazhathota Aruvi (Fruit Garden Falls) near the Govt Horticulture Park above Five Falls is off-limits to the public. An hour’s drive from Courtallam past Shenkottai, Palaruvi (Milk Falls) plunges from the forests of Ariyankavu and offers a panoramic valley view. The best season is June to September and between November and January during north-eastern monsoons.

Access: Located 5km from Tenkasi, it’s 167km south-west of Madurai via NH-208 on the Tenkasi–Shenkottai Road in Tirunelveli District.

Jet Airways flies to Madurai

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Yapik (Arunachal)
As the high road plows deep into the folds of the mountain on the drive to Mechuka, a stunning waterfall makes every traveler stop and marvel. The wispy Yapik descends like a fairy. However, after a brief pit stop, our co-passengers urged us to hurry up. We wondered why. The oldest in the group explained, ‘Yapik is beautiful, but you must not overstay your welcome. After some time, red egg-shaped stones fall from above. And bad things happen!’ We did not stay long enough to find out…

Access: On the drive from Along to Mechuka while basing yourself at Nehnang Hotel (Private IB)

Jet Airways flies to Itanagar

Thoseghar waterfalls IMG_3848_Anurag Mallick

Thoseghar (Maharashtra)
During the course of their exile, Rama and Lakshmana are supposed to have drifted down from Nashik and Mumbai down the Sahyadris. As they came to Saputara or the region of seven hills, like Banganga, they shot an arrow and created a spring. The twin streams of the Thoseghar Falls are known as Ram and Lakshman, though locals also refer to them as Mota Dhabdaba (big fall), which plummets 250 m in wide tiers and Chhota Dhabdaba (small fall), the three-ribboned stream to the right. However, it is water collected from the surrounding range of mountains Mahabaleshwar, Yavateshwar, Kas and Panchgani that forms this cataract and the origin of the Tarlee River. Access to the waterfall in monsoons is tricky due to slippery rocks and force of the water. A board with a list of lives lost in drowning accidents serves as ample warning.

Access: Drive 26km from Satara on the Sajjangadh road; stay at Nivant Hill Resort, on Kas Plateau Road

Jet Airways flies to Mumbai and Pune

Bhagsu (Himachal)
As per local legend of the gaddis (shepherds), nearly 5000 years ago Vasuki, the King of Serpents, stole Lord Shiva’s miraculous bowl holding the water of immortality. Having incurred the Lord’s wrath, the snake god fled with the bowl, which turned upside down while escaping. Its contents were released and formed the waterfall while the spot itself was name after the serpent’s (nag) attempt to flee (bhaag) – as Bhagsunag. While the story may be more fable than fact, the naga connection is apparent. According to another lore, once the region of Alwar in Rajasthan was facing a severe drought. For the benefit of his people, the mystic king Bhagsu left his kingdom and wandered everywhere for a solution. On reaching the slopes of the Dhauladhar mountains, he chanced upon a magical spring owned by Nag devta. Seeing the serpent god away, the king stole a little water in his kamandala (water pot) and left. On returning to his abode, the Naga instantly sensed his water had been pilfered and knew who was the culprit. He chased the king and in the ensuing scuffle, the water spilled and created the waterfall. Bhagsu was shattered. On learning of his noble quest, the serpent blessed his kingdom with rain. He also decreed that the place would become a spot of pilgrimage and be named after the king…

Access: Just 2km from the Himalayan retreat of McLeodganj lies the temple of Bhagsu nag and a short 20 min walk leads to the scenic 30 ft cascade.

Jet Airways flies to Chandigarh and Amritsar

Athirapally waterfall 0036_opt

Athirapally (Kerala)
Perhaps no waterfall in India has been depicted in films as much as Athirapally. Kerala’s biggest fall has served as a backdrop for several songs in Tamil, Malayalam and Hindi cinema. A major portion of 1986 Tamil movie Punnagai Mannan, starring Kamal Hassan and Revathi was based and shot near the falls, leading to its popular nickname as Punnagai Mannan Falls. But the waterfall might as well have been named Mani Ratnam Falls, whose love for the location made him cast it not once, but again and again. It featured in his 1997 film Iruvar starring Mohanlal and Aishwarya Rai, the 1998 film Dil Se with Shahrukh Khan and Manisha Koirala, the 2007 Guru with Abhishek Bachchan and Aishwarya Rai and then again in 2010 in Raavan (Raavanan in Tamil). Such is Athirapally’s popularity that nearly 7 million tourists visit the falls and nearby Vazhachal annually.

Access: 30 km from Chalakudi, 55km from Kochi Airport and 58km from Thrissur. Stay at Rainforest Athirapally with waterfall views from every room.

Jet Airways flies to Cochin, Kozhikode and Coimbatore

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article was the cover story for the July 2014 issue of JetWings International magazine.

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Coorg: The trickle-down effect

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Rain-drenched Coorg is a magical paradise of waterfalls, adventure sports, homestays and delicious Kodava cuisine, discover ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY 

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The frantic ascending notes of the cuckoo accelerated our last minute packing efforts. A quick gulp of steaming coffee and we were off at the crack of dawn to beat the chaotic traffic and urban mayhem in Bengaluru. Outside, it was still dim and like negatives developing in a dark room, images of Coorg (Kodagu), the misty mountain district and coffee county of Karnataka were already forming in our minds. Over the past few months Coorg would have seen monsoon clouds hanging dark as beehives from the skies, dripping and rejuvenating the earth with its honeyed rain.

The drive was practically a breeze as we sped down the expressway past flooded fields of blinding green paddy, shimmering lakes and swollen tributaries of the Cauvery. As the landscape segued from plains to gentle slopes of coffee plantations almost imperceptibly, we noticed how the oxy-rich air was crisp, tingling our senses. Neat hedges bordered each estate while tall shade trees wore long green skirts of pepper vines on their trunks.

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This tiny district garlanded by mountain ranges, velvety meadows and plunging valleys covered by a mosaic of rice paddies, held some pretty impressive records. Coorg is India’s highest coffee producer, Asia’s biggest honeypot, and was declared one of the 38 richest bio-diversity hotspots by UNESCO, possessing the world’s highest density of devarakadus (sacred groves) and several endemic species of flora and fauna at famous wildlife preserves like Nagarahole.

The fascinating people of the land – the closely-knit Kodavas or Coorgs form a community with a culture unlike any in the country; their origins remain an enigma till date. Researchers continue to ponder over this 2500 year old civilization – Could its roots lie in regions around Yemen and Oman or a faction of Alexander’s wandering Scythian Greek armies from Macedonia, are they an Indo-Aryan lot from Mohenjodaro or Georgian gypsies or Arabs?

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Or, are they simply, the children of the River Goddess Kavery? The abundance of nature, the aura of mystery around its martial hill tribe and their innate spirit of hospitality are deadly bait for any curious traveler to pass up. Today the steadily increasing caravan of visitors to this landlocked corner of South India, have transformed the once secret paradise to a much favoured tourist destination.

The road to Madikeri wrapped around the mountain like a giant serpent and the statue of the region’s illustrious warrior son, General KS Thimayya swung into our view. Charming houses with red gabled rooftops fronted by pretty gardens dotted the mountainscape. We turned off the crowded main road leading to the bus-station and headed to Gowri Nivas, a homestay run by Muthu and Bopanna (Bops).

The beautifully renovated family home has a room open for guests besides independent cottages in a backyard full of fruit trees. Despite being in the heart of town, the homestay was tucked in a quiet back lane, providing enough privacy for a pleasant holiday and easy access to the main sights of Madikeri. After devouring a sumptuous spread of Kodava cuisine we nodded off in the mild afternoon sun, taking a cue from the chameleons in the bushes.

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A short 8km drive from town led us to Madikeri’s most popular attraction Abbey Falls (a rather strange nomenclature as ‘Abbi’ means ‘falls’ in the local dialect). Post-monsoons, the brimming cascade thundered over a rocky precipice deep in a coffee and cardamom plantation with a roar that could be heard from the main road. It’s a 10-minute trudge to the metal bridge dangling over the stream where one can capture the waterfall’s fulsome beauty.

The spot was a well-known movie locale where the famous croc scene from Khoon Bhari Maang was shot! At the northern corner of town in Mahadevpet stands Gaddige, the royal tombs of the Kodagu kings, a unique blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. Stray groups of children played cricket and cycled around the grassy compound as we marveled at the intricate trelliswork.

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With its narrow undulating lanes lined by colonial houses, Madikeri is a walker’s dream. The famous hexagonal fort dominates the hillock upon which it stands as it looms over the valley like a brooding patriarch. Originally built in mud by the Haleri king Mudduraja (who incidentally gave the town its earliest name – Mudduraja-keri (place), the fort underwent several renovations under subsequent rulers – Tipu Sultan, Veerarajendra I, his brother Lingaraja and later, the British.

The double-storeyed palace today houses government buildings and the old English Protestant chapel is now a Government museum displaying relics excavated from the region. It also holds a fine collection of memorabilia belonging to the land’s most honoured soldier, Field Marshall Cariappa. The fort complex has a number of edifices, secret passages, a prison, a large portico, a Veerabhadra temple and an ancient Ganesha shrine called Kote Ganapati. A simple memorial dedicated to the brave martyrs of Kodagu who fought the First World War stands outside the palace.

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The Omkareshwar Temple (6am-12noon, 5pm-8pm) built in 1820 by Lingarajendra Wadiyar looks almost Islamic in appearance – a square structure crowned by a massive dome and minarets in its four corners. The tell-tale sacred bulls in the corners reveal that the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva worshipped as a linga, specially brought from Kashi. A flight of stairs in front of the temple complex leads to the emerald green temple tank below where the grand Theppothsava or annual Boat festival takes place in Nov-Dec.

At dusk we walked to Raja’s Seat, the regal pavilion offering the best sunset view. Set in a manicured park lined with flower hedges and musical fountains, we watched the skies blaze with fiery reds and oranges before softening into peachy pink and lavender. In one part of the park was Gandhi Mantap, a memorial built at the site where the Father of the Nation addressed the people of Madikeri in 1934.

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Nearby, children squealed in excitement as Coorg’s only train, a toy train called Baba Saheb Express, chugged along the tracks. The air was rife with speculation about the introduction of a proper rail link from Mysore to Kushalnagar. During the famous Mercara Dasara in October, grand tableaux and processions line the streets. At nightfall, the stars and bulb-lit homes enveloped the town with the hushed fairytale prettiness of fireflies dancing in dark.

If Orange County had put Coorg on the tourist map, Club Mahindra had only reinforced that position, and with luxury resorts like Amanavana and the newly opened Vivanta by Taj, Coorg was upping its hospitality game. Golfing enthusiasts could try the 200-year-old Mercara Downs, an 18-hole natural course considered one of the toughest in the country or improve their handicap at the Bittangala Golf Course near Virajpet while staying at Ambatty Greens Resort or Neemrana’s boutique property Green Hills Estate.

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Or for a whiff of plantation life there were several Plantation Trails bungalows around Pollibetta run by Tata Coffee with quaint names like Thaneerhulla, Woshully and Glenlorna, the last being a tea estate bungalow in a land known for coffee. For the adventurous, there was no dearth of trekking trails around Madikeri, each trail having its own fascinating legend.

At the summit of Kottebetta was a temple built by the exiled Pandavas in the course of a single night; they had no time to make a door as the cock had crowed signalling the break of dawn. Nishanimotte was the peak where sentries raised an alarm (nishani) to alert about intruders. Mandalpatti and Mukkodlu waterfalls were located near Madapur while the twin-humped peak of Pushpagiri near Somwarpet was home to rare crystals shaped like six-headed miniature lingas representing Lord Subramanya.

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But we were headed for Bhagamandala (36km) and Talacauvery, the source of South India’s holiest river. At the sacred confluence of the Cauvery, Sujyoti and Kannike rivers in Bhagamandala, people pay tribute to their ancestors and offer prayers to departed souls. The stunning temple complex is dedicated to the holy trinity of Bhagandeshwara, Brahma and Vishnu. Exquisite architecture and delicately painted woodwork on the ceilings and mantapas divulge the artistic genius of yore.

A further 8km drive uphill past the 3,700ft high viewpoint and wayside stalls selling golden honey in assorted bottles and packets of spices, deposits you at Talacauvery. At the recently renovated temple complex, throngs of devotees gather at the large steps of the famed temple tank. After a holy dip, they perform pooja at a smaller tank, where the deity Goddess Cauvery is worshipped in her elemental form, a perennial spring.

Lakhs gather around mid-October to witness the mysterious bubbling of the spring on Cauvery or Tula Sankramana at a pre-ordained moment. It is believed that India’s most sacred River Ganga travels from the north to wash her sins in the south, in the purifying waters of the Cauvery, which is thus called Dakshin Gange. Shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha and an ancient linga allegedly worshipped by Sage Agastya can be found in the upper level while a steep flight of steps lead to the Brahmagiri peak where the seven sages had performed a yagna eons ago. The hike presents a sublime 360 degree view of misty hills and valleys with stray windmills spinning in the distance. Being a wildlife zone covered by dense mist and thick forests, entry is restricted after 4pm.

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We continued towards Kakkabe (39km) and swung into Kabbe Holidays beyond Chelavara village near Cheyandane. This was the region of birdsong, bountiful honey and lofty heights like Thadiyendamol, the tallest mountain in Coorg. Soaring 5,730ft into the skies, it dwarfed other peaks like Chomakund, Hanging Rock and Kabbe Kund. For trekkers the daunting 6km trek to Thadiyendamol comes with the promise of splendid views and a statutory warning: leeches! Nearby, Chelavara Falls crashes in a sheet of white, more magnificent than Abbey. In the dry months, this sheer rockface turns into a rock-climbing haven as adventurers abseil down its craggy face.

Col NK Appaiah of Keemalekad (08274-269449) organizes jungle walks, obstacle courses and off-sites for corporate and student groups while Quad Biking, zip-line or quad biking are done at Now Or Never Land outdoor activity centre. Sagar Ganapathy of Jungle Adventures (08272-238341/98418 31675) conducts year-round adventure sports like rappelling, rock climbing, river crossing, kayaking and white-water rafting.

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Kakkabe is also home to the ancient Padi Igguthappa temple dedicated to the patron god of rain and rice and the historic Nalaknad Palace, built in 1792 by King Doddaveeraraja as a hunting lodge and summer escape. A tiny sculpted pavilion crowned by a dome and four bulls facing the cardinal directions stands forlorn in an empty courtyard.

The palace itself wears a sloping roof pulled hat-like, low over a simple two-storeyed façade hides its regal trimmings. One notices its pillared verandah, the barely visible wall mural and delicate wooden friezes only after stepping inside. Interestingly, it was here that the king plotted his military moves in the war against Tipu Sultan at Bhagamandala.

The 250-year old Nadikeriyanda Ainmane at Karada with its pillared front and intricately carved doorway and windows is a finely preserved specimen of traditional architecture. Each Kodava family has an ainmane (ancestral home), which holds a mirror to the social structure, customs and traditions of the entire clan.

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The biggest gift the rains brought was the joys of white water rafting on the KKR or Upper Barapole river. Being the only river emptying west of the Western Ghats into the sea, it had a steep and terrifying descent. Organized by Southern River Adventures and Barapole Rafting from Ponya Estate near Srimangala, the river offers some good Grade 2 and Grade 3 rapids as raters and kayaks deftly maneuver the surging waters.

But nothing prepares you for the grandeur of Irpu Falls, believed to be an outpouring of Lakshmana’s remorseful tears after a rare fight with his brother Lord Rama on their way to Lanka. Another story alleges that when a repentant Lakshmana shot an arrow into the Brahmagiri hills and threatened to kill himself in the flames erupting from the earth, the all forgiving Rama pacified him and created the Lakshman Theertha at the summit to extinguish the fire and blessed its waters with purifying powers. Before proceeding to the falls, people visit the Irpu Rameshwara Temple, which enshrines a linga believed to have been fashioned by Lord Rama after his victorious return from Lanka.

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The 1 km stroll amidst iridescent rainforest takes you closer to the torrential cascade tumbling 51.8 m over slippery dark boulders. Everywhere, the clinging moss and lichens on branches and rocks exaggerate the emerald gleam of nature as rare orchids, mushrooms, medicinal herbs, exotic butterflies and endemic birds announced their presence alternately with colour, movement and distinct musical calls. Trekking further into the Brahmagiri Sanctuary requires prior permission from the Forest Department at Srimangala.

Near Dubare, we pitch ourselves at Bamboo Loft, a cosy homestay run by Savitha and Ashish (08276 267800 / 9845848224). The table heaved with an array of Kodava fare and Savitha’s divine culinary skills left us begging for more. Between mouthfuls of kadambuttu and dark spicy pandi curry, akki otti (rice rotis) and bemble (tender bamboo shoot) and yerchi (mutton) pulao, Ashish engaged us with historical nuggets about architectural ruins in the vicinity. We discovered that it made an ideal perch to savour the riverine pleasures of Dubare (25km from Madikeri).

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The unique Elephant Interaction Program (8.30am-12noon) run by the forest department offers a fabulous hands-on experience to understand elephants better. One can assist the mahouts in feeding or scrubbing the pachyderms as they lolled and splashed in their rippling plunge bath, the Cauvery. A short drive takes you to Cauvery Nisargadhama a captivating eco-island, the scenic picnic area of Harangi Dam near Kushalnagar and Karnataka’s very own Little Tibet, Bylakuppe and its stunning Golden Temple at Namdroling Monastery.

Yet there were so much in Coorg still waiting to be explored – the colourful terays (oracular festivals), estates plunged in a sea of white with coffee blossoms in March, plantations afire with countless fireflies in April, the frenetic picking season with berries drying in coffee yards, the month-long Family Hockey Festival and the traditional attire and zest for life, best seen at a Kodava wedding. As the rains abated and a landscape magically revived, we realized how easy it was surrender to the misty mountains of Coorg where each homestay was a destination by itself and no two visits were ever the same.

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared in the January 2013 issue of Rail Bandhu, the Indian Railways magazine.