Tag Archives: Europe

Down the cobbled streets of Copenhagen

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PRIYA GANAPATHY takes a heritage walk down the old cobbled paths of Copenhagen to historic city landmarks, where bits of Denmark’s colourful history and culture come alive with a dollop of humour

DSC03034 The painted houses of Nyhavn, a fairytale setting by day or twilight

High above the Richs building at the corner of Vesterbrogade in Copenhagen, I spotted the gilded Weather Girl sculptures. The rotating ladies atop a tower warn Danes about rain and shine! One rides a bicycle and sticks out of the tower when it is sunny. And if it rains, the sculpture swivels to let the other lady out who carries an umbrella and walks her dog! Created by Einar Utzon-Frank in 1936, the artwork summed up a typical scene in Copenhagen – omnipresent bicycles and rain! There’s an inside joke among men in Copenhagen who swear that “these are the only two women you could trust!”

The Hans Christian Andersen heritage walk is a wonderful way to unearth the city’s hidden stories in buildings and landmarks often ignored in everyday urban tedium. We followed our guide Richard Karpen to where the Old City began, past a straggle of tourists posing near the Bull and Dragon Fountain to cut across the massive courtyard fronting the century-old City Hall. At the doorway, above the balcony was the gilded statue of the city’s founder Absalon, the Catholic Bishop who fortified the castle near the harbour in 1167. The Clock Tower rose 105.6m, making it one of the tallest buildings in town, with the Jensen Olsen astronomical world clock on the ground floor.

Bridge of Sighs view in the Old City Quarter

Copenhagen’s emblem or Coat of Arms – a shield with three towers – rests at the base of the flag pole. Six statues at the top represent the nightwatchmen, the police force and the fire department. The polar bears in the corners represent Greenland and the 32 Faroe Islands which are part of Denmark’s territory. The sea faring nation actually comprises 400 islands and is about the size of Switzerland with a population of 5.6 million Danes.

Inside City Hall, we found ourselves in the august company of Denmark’s most famous luminaries. Four wonderful marble busts decorate the vast hall – Martin Nyrop, the architect of the building, Bertel Thorvaldsen one of the greatest sculptors of early 19th century, Nobel prize-winning physicist and atomic researcher Niels Bohr, and story-teller extraordinaire Hans Christian Andersen.

DSC03130-Wall murals at the University Law Faculty on mythical themes

After signing marriage contracts inside, newly married couples often clink champagne flutes and pose for a picture against City Hall’s stunning backdrop! Some grooms even cart their brides in Copenhagen’s iconic quirky Christiania cargo bikes! The large hall exemplified Danish pride with its simple walls displaying the Danish flag. It is the oldest flag continually in use since the 1300s and Danes consider its signature Crusader’s Cross a symbol of joy. It is perfectly normal in Danish culture to find these flags decorating Christmas trees, birthday cakes, or being propped around picnic blankets… Danes even carry them to greet someone at the airport!

Thorvaldsen’s exquisite statue of Jason and the Golden Fleece is displayed in one section. Initially following the Classical style, he sculpted statues of Greek and Roman Gods before taking inspiration from Nordic deities like Odin, the king of the Gods who gave us Odin’s Day (Wednesday). Here you discover how days of the week are dedicated to gods featured in Norse mythology – Thor the Destroyer with his thunderbolt gave us Thor’s Day (Thursday), Fria is the Goddess of Fertility to whom Fridays are dedicated and Tuesday is named after Tyr, the God of Combat.

DSC03724-Stroget, shopping mecca and one of the Europe's longest shopping streets

Try saying Strøget in Danish and you’ll confess that Danish is indeed a difficult language. “Everyone here will speak English except your bus driver and the one you’re asking for directions!” Richard joked as we checked out the shopping precinct of Strøget, one of Europe’s longest car-free pedestrian streets. Chockful with global brands and souvenir shops, you will also find upscale shops selling Danish amber, crystal, fur and fashion further down.

A towering bronze Lur Blowers, a pair of Vikings caught in a musical moment nearby paid tribute to the notorious sea-faring Vikings, who were raiders, traders and settlers. For centuries, they struck fear in the hearts of the rest of the world. The sculpture was gifted to the city during the centenary birthday celebration of Denmark’s most famous brewer JC Jacobsen’s who founded Carlsberg. Vikings trace their origins to Danish, Swedish and Nordic tribes who flourished a thousand years ago. Their common language – old Nordic, gave us words like ‘berserk’, ‘kill’, ‘thrust’ and ‘wife’!

IMG_0458-Lurs Blowers statue, a tribute to the Viking legacy of Denmark

We strolled to the old bridge connecting the Court house to the old Debtor’s prison, surrounded by Neo Classical architecture. It was nicknamed the Bridge of Sighs in a nod to the famous one in Venice, which also spans a canal between a Court House and a prison! The spectacular view of the pastel-coloured buildings through the archway was a picturesque angle chosen by Danish painters since early 19th century!

Many of the buildings were designed by the Dutch during the Renaissance in the 1600s like the Rosenborg Castle housing the crown jewels and royal regalia. The elaborate ornamentation of French or Rococo and Baroque architecture emerged in the 1700s. In the 1800s, as artists and architects visited Rome and Greece where great monuments were being unveiled, and often imitated such great works while rebuilding cities across Europe. The antique became the ideal as most cities copied Greek and Roman designs, which spawned the simple and symmetrical Neo Classic architecture in the region. The Danes did not develop their own style of architecture until much later.

DSC03104-Cafe Nytorv, a pitstop for great food and schnapps

We halted at Cafe Nytorv, a small restaurant at the square, run by Dennis and Charlotte that specialises in Danish cuisine. The yellow corner building dated 1792, is a century and a half old and one of Copenhagen’s oldest inns. They welcomed us with a shot of traditional Danish Schnapps or akvavit, a sweet alcoholic drink flavoured with herbs and spices. “It’s designed to make men feel strong and women feel weak,” quipped Richard as we learnt the nuances of its drinking protocol. Our hosts raised a toast and we all uttered the Danish greeting ‘Skål’ (pronounced skol)! The guest could propose another toast and this ceremony could go on “until everyone at the table begins to look good!” If we knocked a couple more, he confirmed that “Dennis will look like Brad Pitt and I will look like George Clooney!”

Today skål’ means hello, cheers, good health or ‘bowl’. But the word holds more history. During Viking times, it was a tradition for the victorious to drink from the skull of the slain opponent or leader after war, which was scooped out to a bowl. It became a warcry and later evolved into a salute to good health. Nytorv stands right near an ancient whipping post. It was hard to imagine how this cheerful café-lined area was a market square where public humiliation was common in the old days. Women brought their children to witness it for it was somewhat ‘educational’ and taught them the consequences of a life of crime!

Caritas Well or Fountain of Charity at the Old Market Square

At the heart of Old Copenhagen was Gammel Torv, the Old Christmas Market Square, the oldest in the city. The marvellous Fountain of Charity of a nude woman with a child at her breast and one at her feet occupied pride of place. It was part of the water system erected in the 1600s by king Christian IV who built Rosenborg Castle and the old Stock Exchange. Two major fires during the 1700s destroyed much of Old Copenhagen. Oddly, most buildings were about the same height; there’s an unwritten law that you’re not supposed to block your neighbour’s sunlight!

We saw a gabled roof carved with Neptune or Poseidon, the God of the Sea holding a trident on one side representing navigation and Hermes or Mercury, the messenger God with wings on his helmet, holding a staff and bag of money, signifying commerce, on the other. An arty sign to inform people that the owner was probably a ship merchant. At the University premises, we admired the Library’s brickwork and stained windows and the vibrant wall frescoes inside the Law Faculty.

DSC03058-Ornate entry of City Hall

Our walk ended at the carved doorway of city’s famous 17th century Round Tower or Rundetarn. It is the oldest observatory in Europe and only 36m tall, yet visitors take a cobbled spiral walk of 209m to reach the lookout for a view of the old city. Apparently, HC Andersen often visited its library hall for inspiration. In about an hour, we had covered entire centuries to witness the evolution of this fairytale city.

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Getting there:
Emirates, Lufthansa, Air France, British Airways and other airlines have daily flights to Copenhagen from major Indian cities via Dubai, Frankfurt or London. The journey time varies from 11 hour 45min to 12 hours 15min. Air India will soon launch direct flights to Copenhagen from Delhi thrice a week initially, starting September.

DSC03178 A blend of old and new architecture, Axel Towers near the 1886 circular Circus Building and Tivoli

Where to Stay:

Avenue Hotel
Ph: 0045 35373111
Award-winning boutique hotel with cosy simple stylish Danish design rooms in the heart of Norrebro, close to the metro with organic breakfast and signature wine hour at the bar.

Hotel Danmark
Ph: 0045 33114806
Brand new upscale boutique hotel in a historic neighbourhood close to City Hall Square and Tivoli. Has a rooftop bar and terrace with great views, fab indoor and outdoor dining options. www.brochner-hotels.com/hotel-danmark

DSC03232-Grilled avacados at Gemyse, Nimb's latest gourmet restaurant focusing on vegetarian cuisine

Where to Eat:
Copenhagen Street Food is a harbourside hangout on Papiroen Island with foodtruck style local, artisanal and global fare. Gemyse at the historic Tivoli Gardens is legendary Nimb’s newest addition serving gourmet, healthy veg fare with a few meat and seafood options. (www.nimb.dk/en/gemyse)

At Guldbergsgade in Norrebro, taste Danish food with Italian produce at Bæst, a restaurant known for organic food, woodfired sourdough pizzas and handstretched cheese. Its adjoining Mirabelle bakery is famous for naturally fermented fresh bread, house made pasta, Baest charcuterie and adventurous flavoured icecreams outside.

DSC03218-Glasshouse at Tivoli Gardens

What to do:

Visit Tivoli Gardens www.tivoligardens.com
Discover Copenhagen from the water on a GoBoat www.goboat.dk/en
Hans Christian Andersen Heritage Walk www.copenhagenwalks.com
Bicycle Tours with Cycling Copenhagen www.cycling-copenhagen.dk
Aquatic adventure along the canals with Kayak Republic www.kayakrepublic.dk
Savour a community Danish dinner at Absalon www.absaloncph.dk

Author: Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared in Indulge, the Friday magazine supplement of The New Indian Express newspaper on 21 July, 2017. Here’s the original link: http://www.indulgexpress.com/life-style/travel/2017/jul/24/danes-of-delight-down-the-cobbled-streets-of-copenhagen-2811.html

Haute Springs: World’s top thermal baths

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For centuries, the earth’s thermal springs have been harnessed for their curative and restorative properties. ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY pick out top spa regions across Europe.

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What better way to beat the winter chill than soaking the warmth of thermal baths that spring forth from the bowels of the earth? While India has its share of hot water springs known for their healing properties – from Tattapani, Vashisht and Manikaran in Himachal Pradesh to Surajkund in Jharkhand, thermal baths around the globe have raised the bar on relaxation and rejuvenation experiences. Here’s a list of top international hot spa destinations where the beau monde (fashionable elite) submerge in nature’s bathtubs. It’s time to get out of your thermals and get into one!

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Bad Ragaz, Switzerland
Bad Ragaz, a tiny town snug in the foothills of the Pizol Mountains in Switzerland’s St Gallen Canton, has been a famed destination for health care since Baroque times. The concept of wellness dates back to 13th century, when hunters discovered the hot springs and Benedictine monks built the first bathhouse near the source. Monks risked life and limb to lower people down into the thermal waters of the cavernous Tamina gorge, sometimes leaving them there for a week to heal! Back in the day, only the Russian aristocracy could afford such luxuries. Channeling the pure 36.5˚C ‘blue gold’ waters from a spring deep within the splendorous Tamina Gorge in the Pfӓfers, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is Europe’s award-winning top Wellbeing Thermal Spa and Medical Resort. The warm healing waters form a vast watery oasis comprising the azure colonnaded haven Helenabad, the Sportbad and Garden pool besides a dreamy white public Tamina Therme replete with an outdoor waterfall and panoramic views of snowy peaks.

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A place for blissful wintertime rejuvenation, Bad Ragaz is an ideal sanctuary for personal wellbeing. Indulge in massage and aqua therapies, beauty treatments, specially designed health packages and menus, romantic private couple spa suites and outstanding cuisine in a choice of 8 elegant restaurants (including the Michelin-starred Abestube relaunched as Swiss top chef Andreas Caminada’s gourmet nook ‘Igniv’). True to the vision of its founding architect Bernhard Simon, the Grand Resort retains much of its historic architecture. Bad Ragartz – the triennial art festival virtually transforms the whole place into a sculpture park. Other wonderful distractions include its backyard casino and wine-tours in nearby villages of Malans and Maienfeld, visits to the highlands of Heididorf which inspired Johanna Spyri’s literary children’s classic, winter sports in Pizol’s ski resorts, mountain biking, quaint horse carriage rides and tours in the Schluchtenbus to Tamina Gorge and Altes Bad Pfӓfers (old thermal spa). 2015 marked the 175 Year Anniversary of routing the Tamina waters to the resort where guests have the privilege of enjoying its abundant curative powers on tap or, in its waterfalls, pools, saunas and steam chambers.

Getting there: Fly to Zurich and take the train to Bad Ragaz, 1 hr away.

For more info, visit www.resortragaz.ch/en.html, www.myswitzerland.com

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Bukowina Tatrzańska, Poland
South of the old Polish capital of Krakow on the Slovakia border lies the tiny village of Bukowina Tatrzańska. Tucked at the base of the Tatra Mountains, thermal geysers have been used for their restorative powers throughout the Carpathian range for centuries. But the geothermal health complex at Bukovina Hotel is the largest of its kind in Poland. Thermal waters rich in sulphur, calcium, chloride and sodium are piped from fissures as deep as 2400-2700 m. Rejuvenate in 20 indoor and outdoor swimming pools equipped with hydro-massage, choice of eight saunas including Roman, Finnish, Highlander, Floral and Infrared, besides spa and wellness treatments. With thermal waters ranging from 30 to 38°C, the outdoor pools are popular in winter as well! The adventure sports hub and Poland’s winter capital Zakopane is just 14 km away. Enjoy all things Polish with a traditional meal and highlander music at Bakowo Zohylina Wyznio and pick up unique local souvenirs such as the ciupaga (shepherd’s axe), highlander hat or oscypek (mountain cheese).

Getting there: Fly to Krakow and drive 80km south to Bukowina Tatrzańska.

For more info, visit www.termabukowina.pl, www.poland.travel

Bukovina BUKOVINASPA

Black Forest, Germany
Wellness has been a longstanding tradition in Germany with health resorts harnessing natural springs and spa towns often prefixed with bad meaning ‘bath’. The invigorating climate, woodland air and therapeutic waters create the perfect recipe for wellness vacations. From iodine-rich salt waters of Bad Bevensen in the heart of Lüneburg Heath to Bad Driburg, a family-run mud and mineral spa set in a nature reserve, there are plenty of other options. Bad Harzburg’s  saline thermal spring wells, the mineral and saltwater spa of Bad Salzuflen, the restorative properties of spring water, Ahr wine & Eifel mud at Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, the erstwhile royal spa of Bad Homburg vor der Höhe and the 150-year-old Bad Reichenhall in the Alps known for treating respiratory illnesses. In Bavaria, get pampered at the mineral spa and golf resort of Bad Griesbach or in the sprawling 120,000 sq m pools at the legendary spa resort Bad Füssing. However, Germany’s largest nature reserve Black Forest, has the highest number of hydrotherapy, climatic, thermal and mineral spa resorts. From the world-famous thermal spa Baden-Baden or salt-water spa and climatic health resort Bad Dürrheim, the Northern Black Forest Spa Route is a 270 km circuit of idyllic valleys, mineral springs, spa towns and health resorts, besides immaculate half-timbered buildings, castles, palaces, monasteries, lakes, coniferous forests, peat bogs and vineyards. Relax in the bubbling waters of mineral baths and peat spa at Bad Rippoldsau, the adventure pool at Bad Wildbad or Paracelsus Spa at Bad Liebenzell.

Getting there: Fly to Zürich, Frankfurt or Stuttgart and drive to Black Forest

For more info, visit www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info, www.germany.travel

Pamukkale Turkey Thermal bath

Turkey
Steamy hamams (Turkish bath), soft Turkish towels and stepping out of a thermal pool into the comfort of a bornoz (thick traditional bathrobe), there’s no place like Turkey for hot water relaxation. The country ranks among the 7 richest places in the world in terms of thermal sources. The presence of seismic faults has blessed the vast country with nearly 1300 hot springs across Anatolia, with temperatures ranging between 20-110oC. Start at the historic capital Istanbul with several hamams designed by master architect Mimar Sinan for Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. Many have been restored and modernized to provide a superb hamam experience – Çemberlitaş Hamamı, the five-century-old Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı or Roxelana’s Bath and Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı, part of a historic mosque complex dating to 1500. An hour’s cruise by ferry south of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara and a short taxi ride gets you to Termal, 11 km southwest of Yalova, a resort popular in Roman times and rebuilt by the Ottoman sultans. However, the highlight is the UNESO heritage site of Pamukkale. Perched on a 200 m high cliff overlooking the plains of Cürüksu in southwest Turkey, the name literally means ‘Cotton Palace’ after the calcite-laden waterfalls and dazzling white terraced basins resembling fluffy cotton clouds. The nearby thermal spa city Heirapolis established at the end of the 2nd Century B.C thrived throughout the Greco-Roman and Byzantine periods. Soak in the ethereal crescent basins in pools of warm 35°C water and dream of a once vibrant city full of baths, cathedrals, churches, necropolis and theatre; now in ruins.

Getting there: Fly to Istanbul and Denizli, from where Pamukkale is just 50 km.

For more info, visit https://goturkey.com, www.yalovatermal.com

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Budapest, Hungary
Thanks to a unique geological feature, Budapest sits on over 100 thermal springs that feed the city’s famous bathhouses. It’s called the ‘City of Baths’ for good reason. Budapest is the world’s only capital blessed with thermal waters. Enjoy a unique spa experience at its prime health spa resorts like Four Seasons Gresham Palace or Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget. Take a dip in any of the historic thermal baths in town – the Széchenyi Baths in City Park ranks among Europe’s largest public baths and boasts 18 pools. The century old Gellért Baths, built in Art Nouveau style with a Romanesque swimming pool, is easily Hungary’s most photographed spa. Budapest is also one of the few places to experience traditional Turkish baths built during the Turkish occupation of Hungary in 16th-17th century. Designed with traditional octagonal roofs, domes and pools, the typical Turkish baths at Király, Császár or Rudas Bath hark back to a bygone era where public bathing was not mere indulgence but a way of life.

Getting there: Fly to Budapest via London, Paris, Dubai or Doha.

For more info, visit http://visitbudapest.travel

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared in the January 2016 issue of JetWings magazine.

The Art of Indulgence: Etihad Business Class to Bad Ragaz

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From Business Class Travel on Etihad Airways to blissful thermal spas at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in the Alpine region of Switzerland, PRIYA GANAPATHY enjoys a life of luxury

IMG_7239_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

Would you pass an invitation to indulge at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in Switzerland, one of Europe’s most reputed wellness health resorts and a ticket to enjoy the privileges of the newly refurbished First and Business Class Lounges at Abu Dhabi? Not I. So when all attempts of an online check-in for a flight to Zurich via Abu Dhabi turned futile, I imagined I’d be in for trouble at the Bengaluru International Airport. The Etihad Airlines ground staff were huddled for the daily briefing. Before I’d begun to gripe about the online check-in muddle, I found myself smiling back at the staffer who promptly said, “No problem, I’ll take care of your confirmation ma’am”. He even obliged my request for a window seat! A perfect omen for things to come.

As the national airline of the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Etihad Airways prides itself as an international airline that constantly challenges the definitions of comfort and luxury. Wafting on a carpet of clouds, feet outstretched, sipping Sauvignon Blanc while carving into a platter of chicken breast, salad, sautéed veggies and assorted breads. Thanks to Etihad’s Wi-Fly connection I was simultaneously dashing off mails and tweeting from 35,000 feet. It was easy to see how wonderful life is, while travelling Etihad Business Class.

IMG_7834_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

Touchdown at Abu Dhabi Terminal 1 was smooth but I couldn’t check out the recently refurbished First and Business Class Lounges as I had to rush to Terminal 3 to meet my companions onward to Zurich. Thankfully, a genial Mohammed led me through the maze of people and prevented any further loss of time lest I got waylaid by duty-free shopping outlets! Just past the neon lit corridors, I slowed down to observe the exquisite art on display. Eid was just a day away and the themes explored in the paintings and shadow sculptures were enough to move anyone walking through the open gallery.

A little further on the left was The Premium Lounge at Terminal 3, near Gate 35 – a spacious realm designed for waiting in style. After witnessing rapid growth in a relatively short time, Etihad Airways has upped its ante to meet and perhaps exceed the expectations of its clientele. Many had already settled in the multiple dedicated areas to relax besides the business centre and work stations with free Wi-fi access. A few made a beeline to the smoking room while others curled up to sleep in the choice of cushioned couches.

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Making full use of the convenient shower facilities and the thoughtful amenities pouch, I felt totally refreshed. Talking of subtle details, the pouch is a keepsake as it wears a traditional Emirati “Sadao” weave crafted by local artisans at Sougha, a social enterprise owned by the Khalifa Fund for Enterprise Development. Sougha incidentally means “travellers gift” in Arabic (not too different from ‘sougat’ in India). There are several buffet counters for starters, mains and desserts that I had to forsake this time round. A quick bite and I was set to catch up with the trio accompanying me on Flight EY 73 to Zurich.

Emblazoned in gold the words “From Abu Dhabi to the World” gleamed in the darkness as I climbed aboard. Buckling up at Seat 9A, I felt like Nicole Kidman, brand Ambassador for Etihad in my very own luxe box chamber. Muted lights, a warm blanket, a flute of French Champagne Jacquart, Brut Mosaique – a dry medium bodied wine complemented by cheese and a bowl of nuts… I could drift into a dream or watch a choice of entertainment shows on TV. I chose the latter. The night wore on and the champagne made me daringly try the Rheinhessen, Grauer Burgunder from Trocken. Noting my expression after the very first sip, Etihad’s very perceptive F&B Manager Vera Ivanova, swiftly offered to change it to a delightful white wine from one of New Zealand’s best vineyards, and I gracefully gave in!

IMG_7840_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

The attention of the cabin crew to keep every passenger’s preferences and needs in mind was commendable. How and when I slipped into slumber and was tucked in was anybody’s guess but in the wee hours of the morning, Vera bent down to whisper, “Would you like some breakfast? We have half an hour before we descend.” The menu tempted with a host of offerings perfectly crafted by the staff trained at The Savoy, London no less. A decadent round of Banana sweet chilli loaf with mascarpone (a thick creamy Italian cheese) and dulce de leche (a delicious thick caramelized spread) followed and I was literally in food heaven, floating on a sea of soft clouds.

Zurich airport to Bad Ragaz in the Canton of St Gallen in the north eastern Switzerland was a beautiful 1½ hour train ride past green fields and meadows, wooden Swiss chalets tumbling down the high ridges where louvered window sills overflowed with baskets of flowers and the glittering ribbons of Lake Zurichsee and Lake Walensee slithering past colourful sailboats docked near the pier. I couldn’t prevent myself from yo-yoing from one side of the compartment to the next, fearing I’d miss something spectacular on other side!

IMG_6963_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

The famous spa village of Bad Ragaz surpassed all I had imagined it to be. It lounged against the Pizol mountains, freshly washed by rain as clouds split and the sun broke through gilding the autumnal leaves on the trees and shrubs. The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz was just a stone’s throw from the railway station overlooking snowcapped peaks and an elegant Evangelical Church, whose steeple shot into the blue sky.

The palatial resort lived up to its name on all fronts – luxury, size, hospitality, treatments and health-care and of course gourmet cuisine. Sprawling across 5000 acres were the resort’s realms of relaxation – the five star Quellenhof and the Hof Ragaz hotels, lush gardens, restaurants, golf course, casino and the lifeline of the resort – the healing thermal waters channelled from Tamina Gorge.

IMG_6866_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

Over the next three days and nights we surrendered to the enveloping warmth of the Tamina’s waters, breathing lungfuls of the crisp, clean mountain air, tasting fine wines and eclectic flavours in the hotels many world-class restaurants. With 8 restaurants including the one Michelin star Abestube, and 58 GaultMillau points to its credit, this is a haven for epicureans.

The timing of our trip was perfect as we caught BadRagartz, the fantastic triennal festival of art (9 May-1 Nov 2016) featuring works of renowned international and local artists. This was the sixth edition of Europe’s largest sculpture exhibition and was themed “Blue” as a tribute to the 175th Anniversary of the land’s Blue Gold – the thermal waters of the Tamina spring. Deep in the jagged Tamina Gorge the thermal spring emerged from a grotto, gurgling behind a sheet of glass.

IMG_7082_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

The trip to the gorge was not the only high point. The following day, we had a round of wine tasting at Fromm vineyard in Malans en route to Heidi Village in Maienfeld. The latter was the land that inspired Johanna Spyri’s children’s classic ‘Heidi’. On the way back, the River Rhine whizzed by in a blur as did the 18-hole sprawling golfing greens of Bad Ragaz and we were back at the resort, ready for our last unforgettable supper. At Namun, the Pan-Asian restaurant we met our delightful hosts Thomas Bechtold and Kathrin. We stepped into the casino later knowing fully well how our chips were down. We had run out of luck in terms of time and relaxation and had to bundle our bags for a train from Sargans to Zurich HD at dawn and another rail ride to the airport.

On the return flight from Zurich to Abu Dhabi, I lay cocooned in my flatbed by the window, gulping the welcome fresh orange juice thirstily and answering mails, tweeting my Swiss holiday photos and squeezing the most from the wi-fly facility. Meals were spot-on in terms of taste and portions and the voyage of 6 hours and 20 minutes over the snowy Alps to the hotter hemisphere was blissfully dealt with generous refills of bubbly and a delicious serving of veal steak layered with tomato and grilled Emmental, Tagliatelle noodles and veal jus.

IMG_7844_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

A 6 hour layover at Abu Dhabi was ideal opportunity to wander into the revamped Terminal 1. The efficient staff stowed away my jackets and woollens in a closet leaving me free to roam around lighter. I made a beeline to the Six Senses Spa to book a complimentary back massage before entering the buffet section for dinner. The lounge presented a surplus of choices from Western to Asian and Arabic that was devoured with great zest by all who walked in.

With enough time to shower and snooze, I snuggled up in the comfortable seat, to catch the news on TV. The back support massage at 11.40pm was the key to destress. All I did was straddle up on a massage chair and let Balinese masseuse No Ketut Sukerni work her magic. Her firm fingers combined shiatsu and oriental techniques to ease my hidden aches and pains, almost seducing me into peaceful slumber.

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The range of 15 minute complimentary offers – be it Massages (Back Support, Bamboo Fusion, Foot Massage, Hand Massage, The Hedonist, The Realignment) or Facial Therapies (Eye Retreat, Face Radiance) or Wellness (Reiki) and a Six Senses Spa experience is highly recommended. They even have a Style & Shave Salon giving the complete package of grooming. Before long, I was curled up in the waiting lounge.

At 2.40am when the final boarding call was announced, a concerned Etihad staffer appeared genie-like to wake me and speedily escort me to my flight. Be it the lounge or in-flight, Etihad’s signature efficiency and style in hospitality was discernible. All I did was learn how to give in, gracefully.

IMG_7830_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

Getting there
Etihad Airways flies from Bengaluru to Abu Dhabi and Zurich, from where Bad Ragaz is an hour’s ride by train. www.etihad.com

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
Bernhard-Simonstrasse, 7310 Bad Ragaz, Switzerland
Ph +41 81 303 30 30 www.resortragaz.ch

IMG_6880_Etihad Priya Ganapathy

Author: Priya Ganapathy. This article on the Etihad-Bad Ragaz trip was written exclusively for the blog.