Tag Archives: Kodungallur

Thrissur: Gold’s Own Country

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PRIYA GANAPATHY travels to Kerala’s cultural capital Thrissur to understand the Malayali fascination for gold

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Gold is extraterrestrial. How it came to our earth’s crust is itself a miracle. It was created in space by cataclysmic stellar explosions or supernova that rained on earth as meteorites! So, gold is literally born out of dead stars. According to the journal Nature, a meteor bombardment 4 billion years ago brought 20 billion billion tons of ‘gold and precious metal-rich space rock’ to Earth. So predicting when our love affair with gold began might be tough, though excavations in Egypt peg it to 3000 BC.

While the affinity to gold is universal, the people of Kerala possess an unabashed love for it. Keralites buy nearly a third of the overall gold imported into India. From Padmanabhaswamy Temple’s buried vaults spilling with gold worth hundreds of billions of dollars, to glinting nettipattams (forehead adornments) of caparisoned temple elephants during the renowned Thrissur Pooram, traditional ivory-hued kasavu saris woven with gold threads and giant hoardings with models weighed down with ornaments – the proof is out there.

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In God’s Own Country, there’s ‘Gold’s Own Country’ Thrissur, an unassuming cultural district that is the epicentre of the gold industry. Nearly 70% of all the gold sold in the state everyday is handcrafted in Thrissur. People in Kerala love their gold. When asked why, college girls, mothers, husbands, salesmen, artisans, traders, each had a view.

“It’s in our culture.” “Gold is a deposit.” “We can easily liquidate it in an emergency.” “Unlike land, gold is a guaranteed investment.” Saji, a cab driver joked, “In Kerala, ladies love gold more than their husbands! Attend a rich family’s wedding and you won’t see the girl’s face or sari, only gold.” Those WhatsApp forwards on Malayali brides laden from head to toe in gold are true!

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TS Kalyanaraman, Chairman & Managing Director of Thrissur-based Kalyan Jewellers says, “Kerala has always celebrated this precious yellow metal. Ayurveda has extensive references on the therapeutic nature of gold. In rituals, gold and ghee are considered two of the purest elements.”

In Kerala, gold plays its part through rites and rituals of life’s significant events – from the birth of a child, educational initiation, puberty, communion ceremony, graduation to wedding, the cycle continues. The gold connect begins rather early. Newborns are given honey and vayambu (sweet flag plant) mixed with 24-carat gold. During the Vidyaarambham ceremony elders use a gold ring to write on the child’s tongue, marking the entry into the world of knowledge and learning. We reckon, once Malayalis get the first (and second) taste of gold, they develop a healthy palate for it!

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The Thrissur connection

Every state has its own unique style and creative renditions. Kerala’s traditional jewellery designs borrow heavily from nature. A visit to the Kalyan showroom presented the full range of designs, each with evocative names. Mulla Mottu Mala is shaped like a string of jasmine buds, Naaga Padam resembles a hooded cobra and Maangamala is inspired by the paisley shape of mangoes. Manimala was a string of gold beads, Poothali was embellished with intricate flower (poo) patterns, Pulinakha mala was shaped like a tiger claw, Kaasu mala was a chain of gold coins (kaas), while Elakkathali was a choker named after the quivering movement (elakku) of its tiny free-hanging gold leaflets.

Palakka, a chain with a repeated heart-shaped pattern, mimicked the palakka fruit that tribals strung together into long chains. The classy kasavumala, a broad band of gold, was recently invented to match the gold border of the traditional kasavu mundu or two-piece sari. Non-traditional names – like Sachin, Seema Tara and Savitham – are design identities named after celebrities, actor or movies for the karigar’s convenience!

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CS Ajay Kumar ‘Chitti Kappil,’ a fourth generation goldsmith, says his ancestors moved from a village near Kochi and settled at Cherpu in Thrissur’s suburbs when King Rama Varma IX or Sakthan Thampuran (1751-1805) invited professionals to populate his newly founded capital. His family specialized in making the unique jewel Chittum Kaapum used in the past by Nambuthiri Brahmin women.

He discloses that his family name ‘Chitti Kappil’ is attributed to the jewel rather than the ‘tharavad’ or ‘ancestral place’ as is the norm. His son, Hari Krishnan says, “The unusual earring is not worn anymore as the earlobe hole had to be widened to insert and lock the stud. One would probably find it as a family heirloom or some elderly lady’s ear.”

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Ajay narrates how until the 1930s, thatans (traditional goldsmiths) would visit homes six months prior to a wedding to take orders for customized jewellery. Easwar Warrier, belonging to a community of temple treasurers, opened the first gold workshop in 1935 near Paramekkavu Devaswom at Thrissur Round with 10-15 talented goldsmiths. As business grew, the workers roped in their skilled cousins and craftsmen from Palakkad, Thiruvallamala and Chenganassery.

Warrier encouraged them to settle down with their families, triggering an influx of master craftsmen and talented goldsmiths. This was the beginning of Thrissur as a gold hub. Families from across the state would travel to Thrissur to buy ornaments. The steady growth spawned more retailers and the advent of readymade jewellery.

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Behind the Scenes

“In our culture women look more beautiful in gold,” said young Ans. His father Anto, a gold trader in the busy Puthanpally Church area since 40 years remembers it as the main gold hub. Some traders melted as much as 10-20kg gold every day; its purity checked by placing it on a ‘purity analyzer’ for 30 seconds. “The purity of gold in Thrissur is excellent so people love to hoard gold.” Ans continued, “Local lore says if there is an earthquake in Thrissur, they’ll find cities of gold underground!” “It’s a fixed asset that can be exchanged anywhere at the day’s rate”, sums Anto. “Today’s is Rs.2960/g.”

In sweaty workshops artisans deftly twisted, beat and blew fire on gold bits and wire, transforming them into wondrous adornments, which make their way to showrooms of India’s biggest brands and gold retailers. To Manikandan a craftsman from Palakkad, “This is good work and good pay.” Hammering a tiny bit of gold into a pathalachi – a pockmarked cube used in jewellery making, he says, “It’s been 35 years. I learnt the skill from my father when I was 10.” Thrissur has the most skilled and gifted craftsmen.

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Another feature that sets Thrissur jewellery apart is its lightness – a skill that makes gold purchases affordable without sacrificing aesthetics or design. The astuteness of Thrissur’s craftsmen makes them an asset in every gold jewellery unit. The labour-intensive nature and migration to other cities led to a decline in craftsmen; a gap filled by migrant workers from Kolkata. Nearly 10,000 Bengali craftsmen work in Thrissur.

Demand for Thrissur-trained workers everywhere and the skills acquired here helps them earn better back home. This cultural cross-pollination has also impacted jewellery design. Customers now have additional choices of Bengali filigree designs and nakkaash or hand-embossed ornate designs from Karnataka and Chettinad.

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Back at Kalyan Jewellers, Anjana, a shy bride-to-be eyed a tray of gold bangles quietly. Her mother, sister and grandparents hovered over her along with a small platoon from the groom’s side. The mother-in-law to be, her four co-sisters and a few nieces pored over the choices, mumbling about weight and patterns. Shelba, one of the nieces confessed that her pre-wedding gold shopping fourteen years ago was exactly the same.

“This is the tradition. Even after shopping, all the neighbours and relatives will come over on the wedding eve to scrutinize the purchases, comment and probe into all the details.” In contrast, at another counter Jibin and Vaishnavi, a young couple shopped independently for their upcoming wedding. Vaishnavi says, “This piece is my choice, the rest of the shopping like rings, mangalsutra and wedding pieces will be a family affair.”

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“Jewellery shopping continues to be an emotional exercise that involves families or couples coming together to pick the right pieces,” says Kalyanaraman. “Thrissur is where brand Kalyan is from – and for that very reason, it is one of our most important markets, despite 18 showrooms across the state. When I started my business, I knew every customer by face and name. Today, their children are our customers, and for many in Thrissur, Kalyan is their family jeweller.”

They undertake surveys and study every market beforehand as jewellery tastes vary from city to city. Thrissur’s buyers prefer traditional designs – the shinier the better – and nearly 96% go for yellow gold rather than pink and brushed gold, platinum or diamonds. Thrissur also has a strong culture of exchanging old jewellery for newer pieces because there is 100% exchange on gold value.

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Digging into the past

“It is the innate curiosity of women to enter a shop when they see a new product on display. If women were happy with whatever they had, shops would shut down”, quipped Mohan, a tour guide and history buff from Calicut. “The fashion-minded ladies in Kerala have perhaps motivated artisans to produce newer products, thus fueling the gold industry.”

Mohan explained, “The Greeks and Romans settled around Kodungullur in 300 BC. There was rich cultural exchange through trade as pepper, ivory, spices and diamonds were bartered for gold. When the Jews and Christians arrived, there was demand for skilled artisans to craft gold crowns and ornamented vestments for bishops.

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Excavation findings between 2007-2014 at Pattanam point to a flourishing tradition of glass and bead-making in the region but little gold.” Historian TR Venugopalan too confirmed that Thrissur’s tag as a gold capital was a recent phenomenon.

Stories of excavated gold coins took us to Thrissur’s Sakthan Thampuran Palace, now a museum. The Numismatic gallery revealed 5th BCE Roman dinari found in the Eyyal hoards of Thrissur, which also included Veerarayans (gold coins) circulated around Kochi. Museum Curator Srinath said, “In 1341, when the great flood in the Periyar River swallowed Muziris, Kochi was created (derived from Kochch-azhi literally ‘new port’).”

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At Kodungallur, Nawshad PM, Managing Director of the Muziris Heritage Project and archaeological expert Dr Midhun showed us around Kottapuram Fort. Pattanam, the excavation site, broadly corresponds to the ancient port of Muziris, hailed by ancient chroniclers like Pliny as ‘the first emporium of India’. However, gold findings were limited to a small axe-like pendant, a tiny gold bead and some Roman gold coins kept at Koyikkal Palace Nedumangad Museum in Trivandrum.

The temple of Augustus, testimony to the prosperous trade with the Red Sea, has long gone. It was evening and the sky was ablaze as families sat scrutinizing ornaments in bright-lit stores. The Latin word for gold is ‘aurum’, meaning ‘shining dawn’. Clearly, the name holds true in Kerala, where the sun will never go down on their love for gold.

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Author: Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared in the January 2019 issue of Outlook Traveller magazine.

In the name of Allah: Beautiful mosques of Malabar

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ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY travel down North Kerala’s historic Malabar Coast to discover ancient mosques from Kasaragod to Kodungallur

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Long before Islam burst into India through the northwest frontiers, Kerala’s Malabar Coast witnessed the spread of Islam not by the sword but with a smile. The region had ancient trade ties with Arabia and when the last Chera king Cheraman Perumal witnessed the splitting of the moon, a Muslim troop enroute to Ceylon explained that it was one of the miracles of the Prophet. According to legend, Cheraman embraced Islam, divided his empire among various subsidiary rulers, made his nephew the Samuthri (Zamorin) of Calicut and set sail for Mecca. He landed at Shahr, where he changed his name to Tajuddin and eventually died at Zaphar, marked by a tomb with an inscription noting his death. But before he died, he wrote letters in Malayalam advocating the spread of Islam among his people in Kerala. Several Arab religious leaders, including Malik Ibn Dinar and Sharaf Ibn Malik, sailed to Malabar to spread the message of Islam. Cheraman’s decree, historic mercantile ties with Arabia and the religious tolerance showed by the Zamorin of Calicut, the Chera king of Mahodayapuram and other rulers helped in the spread of Islam. However, Kerala’s artisans had no idea what a mosque should look like (the Indo-Saracenic style was yet to come) and built these early mosques in the local architectural style. Spread across Kasaragod to Kodungallor, these fascinating mosques of Malabar are excellent examples of religious tolerance and Hindu-Muslim unity.

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Cheraman Perumal Juma Masjid, Kodungallur
Built in 629 AD, the Cheraman Perumal mosque at Kodungallur is widely considered to be the first mosque in India. Though rebuilt and renovated over the years, which gives it a modern architectural façade, it does retain a bit of the original style in the interiors. Unlike other mosques, this one faces east, not Mecca in the west. A huge bronze lamp, a feature common in temples, continues to be kept lit inside. And in a time honoured practice, people belonging to all religions bring oil or contribute money to buy oil for the lamp on auspicious occasions. In an anteroom, there is a small mausoleum where Muslim priests light incense sticks, yet another Hindu practice not followed in other mosques. A few years back, the mosque also started Vidyarambham, the custom of initiating children into reading and writing. This is a shrine that has set a practice of intermingling religious rites over the years to come up with a unique Indian ethos. Syed Mohammed aged 85, has been doing baang (meuzzin’s call) since 73 years.

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Malik Deenar Juma Masjid, Kasaragod
One of the historic mosques believed to have been established by Malik Ibn Deenar on the Kerala coast, this holy shrine is located in the Muslim quarter of Thalangara. The original mosque was a small structure with thatched roofing and a floor of marble stones brought with him from Mecca. Later, it was replaced by a bigger, more elaborate structure like the palace of a local king, replete with conical roofs and gables. The same artisans who had built the palace constructed the new edifice using doors and marble stones from the original shrine. An extension was added later. Several tombs dominate the foreground as a walkway leads up to the mosque, which contains the grave of Malik Ibn Mohammed, one of the descendants of Muslim saint Malik Ibn Deenar. Historical details about its construction are also carved on the latticed woodwork in Arabic. Owing to the sanctity of the place and a school for Islamic studies, Kasaragod has become an important center of Islam on the west coast. The town is also famous for the hand-crafted Thalangara thoppi (skull cap), a beautifully embroidered accessory of Islamic identity.

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Khizar Juma Masjid, Kasaragod
Tucked away in a plot barely visible through the narrow gate sandwiched between the rows of shops, the Khizar Juma Masjid off Station Road is a stunning mosque resembling a double-storeyed mansion. A narrow walkway leads to a sprawling structure with a row of arched windows, conical turrets, gabled roof and a slender spire to the right, which presents a beautiful sight. Located in the heart of town, Theruvath Mosque is another notable Muslim shrine. The annual Uroos, held to commemorate the arrival of Malik Ibn Dinar, attracts pilgrims from all over India.

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Ichlangod Mosque
It is said 12 saints sailed to Kerala from the shores of Arabia to spread Islam. Hazrath Rafih Idnu Habeeb Malik Deenar came from Medina in Hejira 37 with his family and seven disciples – Umar, Haroon, Usman, Adbullah, Ali, Abdul and Rehman. They came in an ozhi (boat) up the river from the coast and settled here in a Hindu temple after the Namboodris were relocated to Kidoor. The Hazrath died at the age of 73 and later, his disciples were also laid to rest beside him. Though the mosque is believed to be 1200 years old, a newer structure was built in its place 30 years ago. The only proof of its antiquity is a brass ball with ancient Arabic inscriptions and a stepped pushkarni (temple pond). The Udayasthamana Uroos, a month-long celebration in March-April, is held once in five years. En-route you can also visit the Baba Fakir Wali Ullah Alarami mosque at Pachambla. The Uroos is held every two years and the weekly jumma (every Friday) is a big celebration with devotional songs that go on late into the night.

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Kakkulangara mosque, Valapattanam
The ancient capital of the Mooshika-vansham or Kolathri Kings of Ezhimala, Valapattanam was an important trading town on the banks of the Valapattanam River. The old mosque Kakkulangara Palli was built with laterite that was excavated from nearby, creating the picturesque green pond beside it. This mosque has one of the oldest existing minarets in Kerala and has the graves of Abubakr ibn Muhammad, grandson of the first Caliph Abu Bakr As-Siddiq (573–634 CE) and his companions who settled in Valapattanam to propagate Islam. There’s also a dargah of Ahmed Jalaluddin Bukhari close by.

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Korome Mosque, Wayanad
A 400-year-old mosque, built in traditional Kerala style, with extensive woodcarvings. Originally built by the Nair community, the mosque is seen as an excellent example of communal amity. A newer structure was built 250 years ago under the leadership of Athilan Bappan. The annual Uroos festival in April, draws thousands from all communities. Such was its importance that janazas (funeral processions) would come to Korome from as far as Varampetta. It also enshrines the dargah of Syed Shihabuddin Imbich, a Muslim saint. Located 23 km from Mananthavady, Korome lies on the Kuttiyadi route and can be reached via Tharuvana, Vellamunda and Makkiyad.

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Moideen Palli & Jumma Masjid, Kannur
Kannur was home to Kerala’s only Muslim dynasty, the Arakkal Ali Rajas. Once, a princess of the Kolathiri royal family was saved from drowning by Mammali, a Nair functionary who had embraced Islam. Subsequently expelled from the family, the king granted her land around Kannur, a small treasure and a palace called Arakkal Kettu. Remnants of the old palace and mosques remain in Arakkal Kettu, a large court next to the Moplah quarters of Thakkiavu. An ancient belfry within the compound is used to call the faithful to Arakkal Mosque. The original building that housed the offices of the Ali Rajas (later the office of the Collector of Malabar) is now a museum showcasing numerous royal artefacts. Moideen Palli, the roadside mosque at Ayikkara nearby is an excellent piece of craftmanship while the renovated Jumma Masjid in the backlanes of Arakkal Kettu has a beautiful old dargah of Sayyed Muhammed Moula Bukhari.

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Odathil Palli, Thalassery
An unusual structure with Hindu-Buddhist style copper roofing, the 270-year-old shrine follows a mix of Hindu and Muslim architecture. It has neither a central dome nor minarets, instead there is a roof covered in copper sheets and wooden walls and pillars with intricate carvings. The mosque was built on a piece of land in the heart of Thalassery, donated by the rulers to a rich Arab merchant. Chowakkaran Moosa, a local trader of Thalassery, one of the earliest to source and supply spices from Malabar to the British, was later made in charge of the upkeep of Odathil Palli, counted among the oldest surviving mosques in Thalassery. The adjoining cemetry belongs to the Moosa family and CP Moosa, the great great grandson of the founder of the Moosa clan, runs the boutique homestay Ayisha Manzil in Thalassery.

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Kunjali Marakkar Mosque, Vadakara
The Kunjali Marakkar mosque or Jumayat Palli at Vadakara is where Malabar’s brave admirals offered prayers. It houses the royal chair and sword used by them. The Marakkars, admirals of the Zamorins of Calicut are credited with organizing the first naval defence of the Indian coast. Originally marine merchants of Kozhikode, they left for Ponnani when the Portuguese came in 1498. After obtaining trading rights, the Portuguese pressurised the Zamorin to give them a trade monopoly and evict the Arabs, the traditional traders of spice. Rebuffed, the Portuguese negotiated a treaty with the Zamorin’s archenemy, the Raja of Kochi in 1503. Sensing the Portuguese superiority at sea, the Zamorin set about improving his navy and appointed Kutty Ahmed Ali to the task. Kutty Ali or Kunjali (derived from Kunnu Ali, meaning Junior Ali) eventually became the Admiral of the Zamorin’s fleet and was honoured with the title Marakkar, after marakalam the wooden boats used by Muslim traders to ply the seas. The old Marakkar house has been converted into a small museum and houses swords, cannon balls, daggers and other war relics. As tribute to the four Kunjali Marakkars and their great naval battles, the Indian Navy erected a memorial at Vadakara. Recognizing their contribution to naval defence, the Navy also christened its Naval Maritime academy in Mumbai as INS Kunjali.

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Mishkal Palli, Kozhikode
Built in 1300 by a rich Arab businessman and ship owner named Nakhooda Mishkal, this five-storied structure is a historic landmark of the city. Originally a seven-tiered structure, the Mishkal Palli was once the tallest building in Kozhikode and the heart of the Muslim settlement at Kuttichira. On 3rd January 1510, in an attack by the Portuguese, the mosque was set on fire and the top floors were damaged. Later, when the Portuguese fort at Chaliyam was destroyed, the Zamorin handed over the rich haul of timber for the partial reconstruction of this grand edifice. Built in traditional Kerala style with extensive use of wood, the mosque has a laterite superstructure, Malabar roof tiles and Italian tiles paving the outer section. The building is supported on 24 solid pillars of carved wood and has 50 doors. Around 1300 devotees can be accommodated.
The mosque overlooks the Kuttichira tank, the focal point of the locality lined by old Koya houses dating back to over 200 years. Literally little pond, kutti-chira is spread over half an acre and is ironically one of the largest in Kozhikode! Old, weather-beaten laterite benches around the tank afford an inviting retreat to men who gather here for evening chats and feeding the fish. A local resident, Prof SM Mohammed Koya, has authored a book on Kuttichira, its ancient mosques and the history of the Koyas of Calicut.

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Kuttichira Juma Masjid, Kozhikode
Believed to be over a thousand years old, the Juma Masjid has the largest floor area among mosques in Kerala and can accommodate 1,200 worshippers in the inner hall alone. This sprawling single-storeyed shrine has large doors on the four sides on the ground floor with an unusual circular extension. The upper portion of the walls are covered in wood panelling. The intricate woodwork on the ceiling is reminiscent of ornate temple carvings. Verses from the Holy Qu’ran are etched in Arabic on the partly wooden walls and ceiling rafters.

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Muchundipalli, Kozhikode
Believed to have been constructed 1,100 years ago, this is the oldest mosque in the city. The building stands on a 1.5 m high plinth and has a semi-circular mihrab (prayer niche). The double-tiered roof has an ornamental gable, while the outer walls have elaborate beams supporting a coffered ceiling with delicate woodcarvings. Cornices and carved wooden pillars depict flowers like lotus and animals, akin to Hindu sculptural patterns. A 13th century stone slab inscribed in ancient Vattezhuthu (early Malayalam script), mentions that the property was donated to the mosque by a Zamorin. The slab has been installed on a wall inside the mosque. Two 14th and 15th century inscriptions within the mosque – in Arabic and Malayalam record the renovation efforts.

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Valiya Juma Masjid, Ponnani
Islam has very strong roots in Ponnani, harking back to the times of the early Arab traders. Legend has it that the ponnu nanayam (gold coins) the Arab traders brought were exchanged for goods at this ancient seaport, hence the name Ponnani. Others allude the name to the Nila River as pon-vahini or ‘the river that carries gold’. It is said that a Hindu and a Muslim were caught in a storm while at sea and vowed to build a temple and a mosque if they survived. As events turned out, they landed safely at Ponnani. The Trikkavu temple and the Juma’t Palli (Juma Masjid) stand testimony to their promise. An important pilgrim centre and hub for Islamic culture and education, this mosque has given Ponnani the name, Mecca of the East. The 600-year-old big Juma Masjid was built for theologian Zainuddin Ibn Bin Ahmed around 1519-20 by a Hindu carpenter Ashari Thangal. The architect’s signature adorns the mosque’s beam while his tomb lies inside. Legend has it that during the construction of the mosque, the carpenter fell from the roof and died, hence was buried there. The construction of the entire mosque was done from a single teak tree.

To counter the oppressive rule of the Portuguese, Sheikh Zainuddin decided to create a place of learning for the youth and a Madrassa was built near the mosque along the lines of Al Ahsar in Cairo. Zainuddin’s Tahrid jihad (war poem) called for a united Nair-Moplah front and is thus unique. Like the practice in Chishti dargahs, the Zamorin used to send a ceremonial robe to the Ponnani leaders during the accession ceremony. According to William Logan’s Malabar Manual, over 400 students were learning the tenets of Islam here in 1887. Nearby a mausoleum honours the Malappuram martyrs of the Moplah rebellion whose deeds have been immortalized in Mapila ballads. The four-day festival (nercha) is held in March-April.