Tag Archives: Shimla

Garli: Mansions in the Mountains

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Amid gabled roofs, Gothic windows and English weathervanes, ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY go walkabout in the surreal heritage village of Garli in the Kangra Valley of Himachal Pradesh

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A Shiva Shambhu or wandering minstrel in a red and black turban adorned with feathers walked in sounding his bell just as we were being ushered into Chateau Garli with drumbeats, tilaks and a shower of flower petals. For a moment no one was sure whether the itinerant was part of the arriving group or the welcoming party. And then as suddenly, like a mirage, he vanished into the afternoon haze.

Though the harsh sun had obscured the surrounding Dhauladhar range, Garli’s presence here seemed equally surprising and incongruous. We looked around in disbelief at the European style mansions with gabled roofs, Gothic windows and ornate weathervanes wondering how such a place could exist deep in the heart of Himachal Pradesh. It was only after the refreshing mint cooler went down our parched throats and the drumbeats stopped we knew it was real.

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In a dark sunless room, with the only light emanating from a red chandelier, our host Yatish Sud and his friend Atul Lal retraced the story of Garli. The mint had been replaced by hops but we swear the surreal setting made Yatish seem like a character in a Quentin Tarantino flick narrating a fantastic tale. The story went like this…

The 52 clans of the hill community of Soods, who find a mention in the Rig Veda with reference to a sacred fire, were driven out of Rajasthan after successive Muslim invasions. They escaped with a band of professionals – cobblers, carpenters, blacksmiths, craftsmen – and settled around the hamlets of Garli and its twin town Pragpur 4km away and set up a trading town. The location was protected as well as auspicious – surrounded by mountains and the snowy Dhauladhar range on three sides with the Beas river on the fourth and at the tri-junction of three powerful Shakti peetha shrines –Jwalamukhi, Chintpurni and Brajeshwari.

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Over time, the entrepreneurial Soods became treasurers to the Kangra royal family and as contractors, helped the British build Shimla. The great fortunes they amassed was put back into their hometown and the buildings drew heavily on colonial influences, a touch of Rajasthan and all the finer things that money could buy – Belgian glass, Japanese tiles, fancy chandeliers. Ummm, but haven’t we heard that story before!

In a pattern uncannily similar to the opulent havelis of Shekhawati (set up the mercantile community of Marwaris) and Chettinad (the bastion of the Chettiars), Garli too prospered in the same timeframe. Between 1820 and 1920, the construction frenzy reached its peak, spurring an unstated rivalry to outbuild thy neighbour. And then, by the 1950’s it was all gone.

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“How?”, we chimed. “We’ll continue that on the evening walk”, winked Yatish and led us to the dining area where hot lunch awaited us. After a terrific North Indian meal, we were ushered to our heritage room where we lay down with the looming danger of missing our tryst with the evening. The four poster bed, the paintings on the wall, the colourful embroidered bedspreads, the vibrant windowpanes and antique furniture really transported us to another era. Each of the 19 rooms in the mansion was unique and distinctive. But sleep be damned, we couldn’t wait till evening for the rest of the tale…

A quick round of masala tea and we were ready for our heritage walk through town. Scattered amidst living dwellings with heaving clotheslines and aam papad drying on charpoys were empty majestic homes that held steadfast against time. Some withering edifices lay forlorn and besieged by neglect. In the snaking alleys, one could sense an eerie silence emanating from the empty halls and corridors of run-down mansions.

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“That one with the murals is Rayeeson wali kothi, the one with the uniformed soldiers is Santri wali Kothi and that’s Nalke wali kothi! “Why?” “Oh that’s ‘cause it’s got a public tap in front of it!” There are nearly a hundred mansions marked out on the illustrated map so you could go gallivanting on your own. In market lanes, we discovered the progressive town-planning, water and drainage system that the early Soods had incorporated nearly a hundred years ago!

They established a school for boys in 1918 and a specialized women’s hospital in 1921 (the girl’s school didn’t come up until 1955)! The foundation stone for the Garli Water Works was laid on 8th February 1928 and a new road was built for the Governor of Punjab to come for the inauguration. The water works used imported copper pipes from London and wonder of wonders, it still worked!

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We stopped by at one of the earliest bakeries where home-style cookies were being fired in a coal oven. Pots of water were left at every few paces thoughtfully for the public to help combat heat and thirst. Before the advent of electricity, niches in the wall exteriors held lamps to illuminate the path for the pedestrian.

The humanitarian spirit and thoughtfulness was apparent even at Chateau Garli where the compound wall actually curved around a well. In 1920, when Yatish’s grandfather Seth Melaram Sud struck water while building the house, he decided that the natural resource was public property and moved his walls so that the village folk could fill their pots freely! The practice continues to this day. So how did it all go bust?

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The story goes that in the bygone days, the licentious ones left their families back in Shimla and snuck away to Garli for a secret rendezvous with their paramour or another man’s wife. Some say it was the curse of a wronged woman that brought about Garli’s downfall. By the 1950s, the whole place was abandoned and left to ruin.

“Even our haveli was not too different. My grandfather was orphaned very early in life and was taken care of by Atul’s father. I was the first to come back and then Atul followed. It took years of restoration. The annexe in front of the swimming pool was once a cowshed. We built it like the older structure.” The result was spectacular and seamless…

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Yatish then bundled us into his open jeep for a crazy off-road drive. Recklessly ignoring concerned locals crying “Agey raasta nahin hai…(There is no road ahead)”, we drove down a steep incline, bounced along unpredictably before rolling into the vast expanse of weathered boulders covering the banks of the River Beas. We made it in time to watch the big red sun take its final bow for the day from the horizon.

After a quick stop at the ancient Kaleshwar Mahadev temple we went for a cuppa at Naurang Yatri Nivas, a rustic style country lodge restored by Atul and his wife Ira. The elaborate brick structure was built by Rai Bahadur Mohan Lal for the stay of the Lt Governor of Punjab so he could attend his daughter’s wedding.

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Subsequently it became an accommodation for travellers and merchants who came to Garli for trade. In disuse for almost a quarter of a century, it took 30,000 litres of water, 250 kg of washing powder, 75 iron brushes, 18 people and 15 months to restore it to its former glory.

Returning to the luxury of Chateau Garli, we nibbled on juicy grilled meat and snacks followed by butter naans dunked in mutton gravy. The next day after breakfast local ice-cream man Satpal Sharma ji tinkled his bells to sell his family’s best kept secret – Malai barf! The creamy kulfi-like dessert with an unchanged 40-year old recipe was served on a sal leaf and priced at only 30 bucks a serving. To Yatish, it was “the taste of nostalgia”.

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Thus fortified, we set off for Pong Dam to witness the massive swathe of wetlands. In the distance, herds of bovines grazed and wallowed in the slush. In winter, thousands of migratory birds come visiting from Central Asia, making it a birding haven.

The Dada Sibba temple nearby has a rich treasure of 200-year-old mural art on the walls. Unusual images of Krishna, Shiva and Parvati made us linger and absorb the genius of unnamed artists who helped evolve and define the Kangra style of painting.

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We drove to the famous 8th century monolithic Masrur rock-cut temples where architectural virtuosity was on full display. Despite being weather worn, the delicate carvings, motifs and expressions were unmistakable. Our guide, like many we had met earlier in other towns and villages across India, claimed that the temples were ‘built overnight by the Pandavas’.

It was too hot for Kangra Fort so we headed back for a swim in Sud’s tempting pool, which boasted a funky underwater sound system! The party was on… and didn’t stop. Around midnight, Yatish mischievous asked, “Ok, who wants to come for an open jeep ride into the wilderness. Last week, we spotted a leopard, right on the road!” We dove right in and the adventure continued. Onion-like, the little town of Garli peels away its layers one by one, to reveal its many hidden secrets.

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Discover This
Garli is best discovered on foot. Start your heritage walk from Seth Melaram Sud’s residence, formerly UCO bank and presently Chateau Garli towards the Beas. Walk by the taal (lake) past spectacular buildings – Kanya pathshala, Mohan Nivas, Govt Girls’ High School, the tall gates of Saraswati Vidhya Mandir and the green gabled roof of the Civil Hospital to Naurang Sarai. While returning, take the left from the Govt Hospital and the right from Kanya Pathshala for scenic viewpoints.

Continue on the main road past Bhagwan Niwas and Peerewalan to the market. To its right lies the Garli Water Works while a left turn from Minerva School leads to Bishnu Nivas and the ‘House with the brick jali’. And for those who are interested, there’s also The Hidden House and a Mystery House, besides several ruins!

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How to Reach
By Road: Located 4km from its twin heritage village Pragpur, Garli is 60km from Hoshiarpur, 70km from Dharamsala and 186km/4hr drive from Chandigarh via Ropar, Anandpur Sahib and Nangal.

By Air: The nearest airport is 47km away at Gaggal in Dharamsala or Bhuntar (85km) near Kullu.

By Train: The nearest railway station is Amb, 25km away though one can travel to Una or Hoshiarpur, which have more train connections. From Delhi, one can take the Kalka Shatabdi to Chandigarh and drive to Garli.

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Where to Stay

Chateau Garli
Mohan Niwas, VPO Garli, Dist Kangra
Ph 94180 62002, 98104 35554 www.chateaugarli.com
Rs.5000 onwards

Naurang Yatri Nivas
Opp Senior Secondary School, Village Nahan Nagrota, VPO Garli, Tehsil Rakkar, Dist Kangra
Ph 01970-245096 http://www.nyngarli.com

Banta House homestay
Near Garli entrance, VPO Garli, Dist Kangra
Ph 8459220851

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When to go:
Garli is great all year round, though summers can get pretty hot. Time your visit to catch a local festival like Hola Mohalla at Mairi, 15km away or the century old wrestling festival and 3-day fair Maidan ka Mela at Garli in September.

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared in the April 2017 issue of Discover India magazine. 

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Naldehra: Curzon’s retreat

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Golf, river rafting, hot water springs, heritage walks, local cuisine… there’s a lot to do around Lord Curzon’s favourite haunt Naldehra, as ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY find out

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The clouds hung low over Shimla, where houses perched on the mountains like mushrooms on a giant dunghill. At least, that’s how it looked after 200 years of unbridled development. Drawn by its cool weather and pleasant surroundings, the British elite trickled into Shimla between 1813 and the early 1830s, helping it evolve as a centre of education, entertainment and high life. Viceroy John Lawrence shifted India’s summer capital to Shimla in 1864 and it remained so till 1947. In the pre-independence years between April and October, the British Empire – stretching from Aden to Myanmar, nearly a fifth of the human race – was governed from these heights.

Today, the bustling capital of Himachal Pradesh seemed to split at its seams, as we turned left from the only traffic light in town and continued 22km north to the laidback retreat of Naldehra. Smitten by the undulating grassy meadows fringed by tall cedar trees, Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India (1899-1905) devoted much of his time here. This scenic spot was Curzon’s favourite campsite and he even renamed his youngest daughter Alexandra as Naldehra – a rare departure from the norm of naming places and sightseeing spots after British officers and their families. Curzon set up India’s oldest golf course here, also one of the highest 18-hole golf links in the world. Its undulating terrain made the Par 68 course one of the most challenging in the country.

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We swung up the slope of the Chalets Naldehra driveway and a lift transported us to the upper level. Beyond the manicured lawn and a pretty garden, Finnish log cabins stood at multiple levels, each unique in design. Set on a 2-acre property owned by the enterprising father-son duo Yatish and Amish Sud, it was originally a personal holiday home close to the golf course that had now become a resort. Every chalet, named after historic people from the region, sported nameplates – F Younghusband Chalet was named after explorer, adventurer and friend of Lord Curzon Sir Francis Younghusband. The Gerard Chalet celebrated brothers Patrick and James Gerard, early explorers who mapped the hills. Captain Kennedy Chalet was dedicated to Charles Pratt Kennedy, the first Political Officer to the Hill States, a Scotsman who built the first pucca house in Shimla – Kennedy House. Sir Henry Collet Chalet hailed British botanist and army officer who authored ‘Simla Simlensis’, a handbook on the flowering plants of Shimla. Local historian Raja Bhasin, who authored the fascinating book ‘10 Heritage Walks in Shimla’ was responsible for the nomenclature and we hoped to go on a heritage walk with him.

Our room was scented with pinewood and the balcony offered a view of cedar forests and troops of curious monkeys. We really needed the nature hike after devouring all the food! The snowy peaks stood in a ragged line like tardy students at the morning assembly. We could have sat at the viewpoint for hours but chose to take a diversion and trudge up to the Naldehra golf course. There, the old temple of Nanahal Dev (or Mahu Nag), the paramount deity of the region, stood by the greens. Tourists rode horses to the sightseeing points while the adventurous tried the zipline. Some were content to pose in Himachali costumes. Even the zipline gear was up for a photo-op! By evening, we were back at Chalets Naldehra perched on the revolving restaurant, 360˚ Top of the World, the first and only one of its kind in Himachal Pradesh! Like Piz Gloria atop Swiss peak Schilthorn, made famous by James Bond, the small octagonal restaurant seated 20 and was a great place to unwind and enjoy a delicious meal with laser lights, sunset views and starry nights.

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Chalets Naldehra was also perfectly placed for excursions. A long winding 25km downhill drive past rolling countryside took us to the River Sutlej cutting swiftly through gorges. White water rafting was conducted along a tame 5km section of the river. However, the rapids were so mild, they didn’t even merit having names! Starting near Sunni, the biggest thrill was a customary dip at the waterfall gushing down from the pumphouse. Serious rafting enthusiasts undertook daytrips to tackle Grade II-III rapids that began further upstream. The trip culminated at the hot water springs of Tattapani.

Tourists had circled out the therapeutic sulphur springs with stones and pebbles. Hot water bubbled forth on the right riverbank, prompting people to cool or warm their heels, take dips, mineral baths and even indulge in mud slinging! Sadly, Tattapani faced imminent threat of being submerged by reservoir waters of the Kol Dam by the end of the year. The historic Shiva Gufa (cave) was just 5km away at Saraur but we continued 40km to Mahunag instead.

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The temple of Mahunag, amid forests of pine and deodar, was believed to be the embodiment of Raja Karna. As per legend, during the Mahabharata war, as Karna lay bloodied on the battlefield, Krishna lamented that the sun of magnanimity was setting. Arjuna was amazed that Krishna was praising Karna before Dharmraj Yudhishthir, the epitome of justice. To prove his point, Krishna disguised himself as an old Brahmin and went to Karna. Claiming to have heard of his large-heartedness, Krishna asked for alms. Having nothing on him, Karna slammed his jaw on his shield, dislodged his gold tooth and offered it to him. When the Brahmin rejected his bloodied offering, Karna summoned his last ounce of strength, shot a varunastra arrow into the earth, cleaned his gold tooth in the fountain and offered it anew to the Brahmin. Pleased, Krishna revealed his true form and Karna lay down his life at his feet. We marveled at the legend as much as the ornate wooden door, silver-plated entrance and the strange stone idol of the guardian deity Jallah Maharaj.

There were several Mahunag shrines dotting the region, as we discovered on our leisurely morning hike to the charming 500-year-old village of Kogi. As the sun lit up the village, the beauty of Naldehra’s surroundings came alive. The ancient temple of Nanahal Devta (Mahunag Mandir) with beautiful woodcarvings lay in the heart of the village. Despite the garish renovation job in 1994, the tower shrine retained a rustic charm. The typical Himachali village had homes covered by slate roofs and horses tied in open sheds below.

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For a taste of typical pahadi cuisine we dropped by at the Grameen Bhandhar Naldehra, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery cum store. Run by local women who man the adjacent Himachali Craft Centre, the intriguing menu sported items like Babru, Khairu and Siddu. They sounded more like thugs rather than dishes! Siddu, a steamed dumpling was eaten with spicy, mint-chili chutney and hot ghee. Curries like khatta (tangy) and meetha (sweet) paired well with rice.

Just 11 km from Naldehra was the country’s first private apple orchard set up by Alexander Coutts, tailor to former Viceroy of India Lord Dufferin. Established in 1887 as Hillock’s Head in Mashobra, the farm generated 90 English varieties of apples, pear, plum and ornamental plants. It gained fame as Coutts Garden and new apple varieties like Yellow Newton, King of Pippin and Granny Smith were introduced. Raised as a Research Station by ICAR in 1953, it served as the Regional Horticultural Research & Training Station and Centre for Excellence for sustainable apple farming since 1985. The station helped Himachal Pradesh become the ‘Apple State of India’ with over 238 varieties of apples. Spread over 64 acres at a height of 2286m, it housed rare trees and flowering plants with an uninterrupted view of the Himalayas.

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Equally nice was the drive along meandering mountain roads and swathes of forest towards the Himalayan National Park at Mahasu massif. The snowy slopes of Kufri (16 km from Naldehra), a winter sports capital in its heyday lured skiers to carve the snow. Today, it bore the brunt of mass tourism as scabs of shanties dotted the hill. A steady line of mules, yaks and horses wound up the slushy narrow roads bearing tourists who thronged the little hamlet for resplendent Himalayan views. Few visited the high altitude zoo at Kufri, home to rare antelopes, wild cats and Himalayan birds.

Since Raja Bhasin was out of town leading a tour, we grudgingly returned to Shimla for a heritage walk, albeit with Amish Sud in tow. A quick cuppa at Wake & Bake Café on the Mall and we were good to go. Walk No.1 from Scandal Point to Viceregal Lodge took us past several colonial and historic landmarks – the 1883 built General Post Office Building, St Andrew’s Church that was now a library and college, Bantony Castle, residence of the Maharaja of Sirmour slated to be a museum, the Railway Board Building, Gorton Castle (currently AG Office) whose upper storey burnt down recently, the 1862 building Knockdrin or the Chief of Staffs’ residence and the Central Telegraph Office.

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All around us there was a buzz in the air. Locals thronged Lakkad Bazaar for provisions. Rosy-cheeked schoolgirls chatted animatedly in chorus. Nostalgic old men ambled down Mall Road recounting the years of their youth. And the words of F. Beresford Harrop from his 1925 ‘New Guide to Simla’ rang true, “The transmitters of gossip are ever at work and savory and unsavory secrets of our society are flashed to the uttermost limits of Simla with all the speed of wireless.”

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Getting there: Take the Kalka Shatabdi train from Delhi to Kalka (4 hrs) and take the narrow gauge Kalka Shimla Heritage train (5 hrs). If you’re in a hurry, drive 99km from Kalka to Shimla (3 hrs), from where Naldehra is another 22 km.

Stay at Chalets Naldehra http://www.chaletsnaldehra.com

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared on 9 August 2014 in the Sunday magazine of The Hindu.