Tracking the Silverback in Rwanda

On World Gorilla Day (24 Sep), ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY relive their encounter with mountain gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park while attending the 14^th Kwita Izina or naming ceremony of baby gorillas

Rwanda is undoubtedly one of the best places in the world to spot the endangered gorilla. With direct flights by Rwand Air from Mumbai to Kigali, it’s easy to explore this pocket-sized country in East Africa. Based in the plush Marriott Kigali Hotel in the diplomatic enclave of Kiyovu, we traipsed around the Rwandan capital on a Go Kigali city tour. The gorilla statue near the City Hall was unmissable, and every time we crossed it while visiting local markets and museums, it heightened the anticipation of our encounter with the Silverback.

It was still dark when we set off on a serpentine drive to the misty Volcanoes National Park. Five of the eight volcanoes of the Virunga Mountains – Muhabura, Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Bisoke (with a crater lake) and Karisimbi, the tallest at 4500m – were located in Rwanda on its eastern border with Uganda and Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). The slopes of the 160 sq km Virunga Massif are the last refuge of the mountain gorilla, one of the two sub species of the eastern gorilla. The park had survived human resettlement, deforestation, bifurcation, poaching and civil war.

In 1967, it became a base for American naturalist Dian Fossey who set up the Karisoke Research Centre and single handedly saved the gorillas from extinction by drawing international attention to their cause. By 1981, due to civil strife and poaching, mountain gorilla numbers in this tri-junction had plummeted to an all time low of 242. Dian was murdered by poachers in 1985 and her life was immortalized in the film ‘Gorillas in the Mist’, named after her autobiography.

She was buried in the park close to the research center, amongst the very gorillas that were her life’s mission. Karisoke remains the longest running gorilla field study site dedicated to the conservation, protection and study of gorillas and their habitats in Africa. 2017 marked 50 years of it, when World Gorilla Day was first constituted.

On reaching the park headquarters at Kinigi near Musanze we were divided into groups of eight before being assigned to one of the twelve gorilla trekking routes open to tourists. Our comfort at tackling previous hikes to the forest canopy walkway and the waterfall at Nyungwe National Park got us slotted on the tougher Isimbi trail. Gaiters, rain jackets and gloves were offered on hire as our 26 year-old guide Jolie briefed us on gorilla behaviour.

We drove beyond Sashwara, past small villages with bustling markets and streets where kids waved, smiled and chanted muzungu meaning ‘foreigner’ in local Kinyarwanda. The Umusumba Trekking Trail began at the edge of the forest, where a troupe of porters in blue uniforms awaited us with beautiful walking sticks carved with gorilla heads. Before we set off, Jolie gave us a crash course on the various grunts, calls and gestures of gorilla language, warning us on how to approach them and be submissive. Our hearts thrummed in excitement…

The two-hour hike along the lower slopes of Karisimbi took us through a thick carpet of sodden bamboo leaves and a tangle of vines. Slipping and tripping through an obstacle course of fallen bamboo, squelchy pathways and dense undergrowth, we practically crawled on all fours at some points. Clearly, to track a gorilla, we had to become gorillas!

We reached our advance party of trackers who had identified their location slightly off-course, forcing us to hack our way through a near impenetrable maze towards steep inclines overridden with stinging nettle. Our hands smarted with the sharp burn as we inadvertently clutched at them to avoid losing balance.

And then suddenly, we stumbled upon the black furry mass of the 19-strong Isimbi family – they were lolling on a bed of stinging nettles as if it were a cloud of silk cotton. Watching over the ten juveniles and eight females was the mighty Muturengere, the alpha male. He was a Silverback, named after the silvery band on the back of mature adult males.

The tiny tots played ball with wild fruits, somersaulted and tumbled around before noticing us. Slowly they approached us with infantile curiosity and we were instructed to step back. Crouching low, we repeated ‘Maaae-mmmmhh’, which meant ‘we come in peace’ until Muturengere relented and grunted his approval.

One of the five biggest Silverbacks in the Virunga massif, he weighed over 200 kg and stood at 1.9m. Seeing him face to face barely a few meters away was spine tingling. A few adolescents nibbled away at leaves as older females nit-picked and groomed their offspring, some monkeyed around and drew nearer to us in mock menace, beating their chests like King Kong.

It was unforgettable and definitely one of the highlights in Rwanda. The allocated hour to spend time with the gorillas went by in a blur. As we headed down the slope of the volcano, the fog rolled in and the feathery image of gorillas in the mist was imprinted in our minds forever.

The afternoon was spent at the gorilla guardian village of Iby’Iwacu for a cultural tour of brewing banana beer, basket weaving, music and food tasting experiences. We met former poachers who were now the park’s custodians. Two days later, we returned to Kinigi for Kwita Izina, a reenactment of the centuries old Rwandan tradition of giving a name to the newborn.

Launched in 2005, Kwita Izina 2018 celebrated the naming of 23 gorillas born in the past year. The numbers were growing each year! The massive gathering at the base of Volcanoes National Park wore a festive air with locals waving Rwandan flags and volunteers dancing and chanting.

A giant gorilla frame made of bamboo with an infant riding on its back served as the backdrop for performances by cultural troupes and South African pop duo Mafikizolo. The 23 celebrity namers from across the world included diplomats, philanthropists, wildlife promoters, statesmen and sports stars who had turned up in Rwandan attire.

Chinese travellers Xinyu Zhang and Hong Liang, who built a gorilla sculpture using 3000 energy saving bulbs, named a baby gorilla from the Igisha family Urugero (example). Rao Hongwei, Chinese Ambassador to Rwanda, gave his baby gorilla two names – one in Kinyarwanda, Uburumbuke (prosperity) and the other in Chinese, Wangwang, drawing much mirth from the crowds.

Rwanda Development Board, the nodal agency for investment and tourism, had teamed up with Arsenal Football Club to promote Rwanda. Cameroonian footballer and Arsenal legend Laureno Bisan Etamé-Mayer named his baby gorilla from the Kwitonda family Ikipe (team) while his gorgeous counterpart, Arsenal star Alexandra Virina Scott named her infant from Isimbi family Izahabu (gold).

US Ambassador Peter Vrooman recounted his ascent of Mount Karisimbi and Bisoke and named Susa family’s newborn Intarutwa (paramount). His Highness Sheikh Dr Abdul Aziz Ali Bin Rashid Al Nuami, better known as the ‘Green Sheikh’ named his baby from the Agashya family, Nayombi (exceptional care). It was fascinating to learn from the personal insights and anecdotes, the relevance and context to each name.

Michael Wale, CEO of Kerzner International which runs Atlantis and luxe resorts around the globe (including two One & Only resorts in Rwanda – Gorilla’s Nest and Nyungwe House). When he visited Rwanda four years ago he found it a paradise; hence his name for the little gorilla from the Muhoza family was Paradizo! Mantis, a family-run collection of eco hotels in Africa, manages Akagera Game Lodge in Rwanda.

Founder-chairman Adrian Gardiner has been visiting Rwanda for 11 years and was amazed at Rwanda’s cleanliness and President Paul Kagame’s commitment to the environment. Lauding Rwanda as the ‘University of Africa’ we could all learn from and the symbol of gorilla tourism in the world, the little one from the Musilikare family was named Iribero (symbol). Thomas Krulis of Lotto Investments shared how he witnessed the birth of a baby gorilla before his very eyes while trekking on 16 July 2017 (the second time it had ever happened). His name for the Sabiyani family newborn, Ruhire (lucky) seemed perfect!

We felt a connection when the unnamed mischievous fellas from the Isimbi family we had spotted earlier got baptized! Alexa Gray of Gordon and Patricia Gray Animal Welfare Foundation named her Isimbi newborn Kunesha (to win). Michael O’Brien-Onyeka from Conservation International for Africa reiterated mankind’s dependence on nature and how Rwanda gets it right with leadership, good governance, women empowerment and conservation.

“We feel proud to be African. Since Rwanda has become the sunrise in Africa, I give the name Umuseke (dawn),” the crowds roared. Dr Olusegun Obasanjo, former president of Nigeria lauded Rwanda for devising such a unique and instructive event for raising awareness that was worthy of emulation. He named a newborn Musmikare (May he live long).

The namers included local heroes like porter Judith Kakuze, who called the Amahoro family infant Indakemwa (integrity). Pop stars Theo Kgosinkwe and Nhlanhla Nciza of South African band Mafikizolo thanked Rwanda for protecting nature, forests and the gorillas, naming their Agashya family newborn Ikiza (goodness).

Zimbabwean entrepreneur and philanthropist Strive Masiyiwa admired the Rwandan spirit, naming the newborn from Kwitonda family Ishusho (image), “since Rwanda has become the image of positive change we want to see in Africa.” The star namers held up ‘Remarkable Rwanda’ placards as drummers and costumed Intore dancers stole the show. The event ended on a high with a gala dinner and performance by Mafikizolo at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel.

While we have attended our share of naming ceremonies of cute little babies in India, being present at one for gorillas, was definitely a first! It was truly remarkable to see how a country coming to grips with genocide in the late 90’s had become a role model for the world.

Kwita Izina was easily the most important conservation event in Rwanda – a celebration of the majestic mountain gorillas, park rangers, guides, local communities and 18,000 Rwandans who live around the park who have joined hands with the government in conservation efforts for the past 15 years.

The results spoke for themselves – 50% reduction in gorilla mortality rates, increased visitation by 10% and a 26% increase in the population of mountain gorillas from 480 in 2010 to 604 in 2016. In the 2019 edition of Kwita Izina, 22 baby gorillas were named. Today, mountain gorilla numbers have crossed the magic threshold of a thousand known individuals. And a tiny country like Rwanda was leading the way as a model for sustainable development.

The gorilla groups are tirelessly followed up the steep slopes all year round and the monitoring and research programs of these magnificent creatures and their habitat secures the foundation for future generations. The fact that this is the only region in the world where one can spot them in the wild (they do not survive in captivity) makes it a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ experience.

FACT FILE

Getting there
The national carrier Rwand Air (www.rwandair.com) flies direct from Mumbai to Kigali (7 hrs) four days a week. From Kigali, Volcanoes National Park is a 3 hr drive away, as are wildlife parks like Akagera and Nyungwe.

Where to Stay
Kigali Marriott Hotel www.marriott.com
Serena Hotels, Kigali & Lake Kivu www.serenahotels.com
Ubumwe Grande Hotel, Kigali www.ubumwegrandehotel.com
Akagera Game Lodge www.mantiscollection.com
Gorilla’s Nest & Nyungwe House www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Gorillas Volcanoes Hotel, Ruhengeri

Visas
Visa on arrival $30. An East African combined visa covering Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania costs $100.

Entry Fee
Only 96 permits are issued per day with each permit costing $1500

What to Do
Go Kigali City Tour http://gokigalitours.com/
Track gorillas at Volcanoes NP https://www.volcanoesnationalparkrwanda.com
Wildlife tour of Akagera & Nyungwe www.wildlifetours-rwanda.com
Hike to Bisoke (1 day) or Karisimbi, a 2-day trek with overnight camping at 3,800m

For more info, www.visitrwanda.com, www.rdb.rw/kwitizina

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared on 20 Sep, 2019 in Indulge, the weekend supplement of The New Indian Express newspaper. 

Rwanda: Planet of the Apes

ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY take part in Rwanda’s annual naming ceremony of young mountain gorillas and explore the wildlife reserves of this dime-sized country 

Think Africa and herds of big game roaming the plains and grasslands of a vast continent come to mind. Wedged between mighty Kenya, Tanzania and DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo), one wonders what a dime-sized country like Rwanda can offer. Yet, it stands tall in wildlife circles as one of the few places in the world where you can see mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. Thanks to an invite to attend the gorilla-naming ceremony Kwita Izina, we found ourselves on a direct Rwand Air flight from Mumbai to Kigali.

It was an early morning touchdown, yet Jullesse, the cheery representative from Rwanda Development Board was there to greet us and whisk us away to our hotel. En route we got a crash course on the cultural significance of Rwanda’s biggest wildlife and conservation event. Virunga Massif, a dramatic volcano-ridden landscape of 160 sq km at the tri-junction of DRC, Uganda and Rwanda is the last refuge of the mountain gorilla.

Strife, poaching and encroachment in the region had led to a rapid decline in their population to an all-time low of 242 in 1981. Conservation efforts spearheaded by American primatologist Dian Fossey (‘Gorillas in the Mist’ fame) and tirelessly monitoring of gorilla families up the steep slopes all year round led to a slow revival.

For centuries, newborn children in Rwanda have been named in a ceremony called Kwita Izina. Taking the idea forward, Rwanda Development Board adopted a unique conservation initiative to celebrate the birth of baby mountain gorillas born in the wild. Since 2005, the annual naming ceremony has involved local communities and a galaxy of statesmen and conservationists from around the world chosen as celebrity namers. With few days to go for the official ceremony, we had the perfect opportunity to explore the capital city.

Our base was the swish Kigali Marriott Hotel, one of the first international hotel chains to open in Rwanda. Located in the diplomatic enclave of Kiyovu in the posh CBD (Central Business District), it overlooked the high-security presidential quarters. We walked past the Gorilla Statue near the Town Hall to Kandt House Museum, the first brick building in town. It was the home of German explorer and administrator Richard Kandt, Kigali’s founder and the country’s first Resident.

His statue stood in the front of the building, which earlier housed the Museum of Natural History. A small collection of snakes like the Black Mamba and Gabon viper in a small enclosure at the back, a baby crocodile in a pond and a gorilla in a glass case are the only remnants of the former museum, which currently showcases Rwanda’s cultural, geographic and colonial past.

Back at the hotel at Iriba Bar & Terrace, we grabbed some local ‘Question Coffee’ sourced from a women’s co-operative and fried sambaza (local fish) and brochettes or skewered meat cubes with roasted ibirayi (Irish potatoes). After a relaxing Dead Sea mud therapy at the spa and evening happy hours at the Executive Lounge, we dined at Soko restaurant, with traditional woven agasake baskets lining the walls. The hotel had a Go Kigali outlet where we booked a local city tour the next day.

Led by our friendly guide Colombe, we headed to Mount Kigali for a panoramic view over town. The pine forests were serene except for a troupe of furtive blue-balled Vervet monkeys. We trawled local milk bars, mural walks, Gaddafi Mosque and the Muslim quarter of Nyamirambo, Kigali’s hip neighbourhood. At Kimironko market we marveled at the varieties of multi-hued beans and tasted Rwandan produce like tree tomato and passion fruit. Our tour ended at a local eatery Tamu Tamu where we tried the Rwandan staple ugali (cassava porridge), stewed cassava leaves, fried fish and goat curry.

The next morning we left early for Volcanoes National Park for our first brush with gorillas. Women dressed in colourful kitenge carried headloads of sweet potato, banana and cassava to reach local markets by dawn while men pedaled furiously balancing bundles of sugarcane or stacks of carrots and charcoal.

The mist covered volcanoes towered above the hilly landscape. Five of the eight volcanoes – Muhabura, Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Bisoke and Karisimbi – were in Rwanda. Had we known that fifteen minutes later we would be assigned to Karisimbi, the tallest of them at 4500m, we wouldn’t have been smiling!

Soon, we disembarked at the busy park headquarters at Kinigi near Musanze. Only twelve gorilla trekking routes were open to tourists and each trekking group had eight members. We got the tough Isimbi trail led by the petite young guide Jolie. Briefing us on gorilla behaviour and language, she explained the various grunts, calls and gestures, warning us to approach them submissively.

“Crouch low and repeat ‘Mae-mmhh’, which means ‘we come in peace.’ We practiced obediently like kindergarten children. Gaiters (leg guards), rain jackets and gloves were offered on hire, but we smugly looked at our Decathlon-acquired shoes and rain jackets and politely declined.

Driving an hour past bustling markets, small villages and waving kids we reached the edge of a forest where porters in blue uniforms awaited us with walking sticks carved with gorilla figures. The wise among us took porters for their backpacks and camera equipment. Little did we know what awaited us on the Umusumba Trekking Trail.

The hike got progressively tougher as we started to climb – a slippery path of bamboo leaves, a tangle of vines to ensnare you, bamboo stumps waiting to trip you, squelchy pathways, dense undergrowth and steep inclines lined with stinging nettle. Ah, that’s why the gloves, we winced and cursed! After plodding for nearly two hours, we reached our trackers and made a final insane climb.

Lolling on a bed of nettles in a clearing was the Isimbi family. Watching over the ten juveniles and eight females was mighty Muturengere, a 200 kg 1.9m tall Silverback – adult males get a distinct silvery band on the back on maturity. The furry little gorillas played around with wild fruits, before ambling towards us in curiosity.

We bleated our pacifist calls repeatedly until Muturengere grunted his approval. An hour elapsed in the blink of an eye. All of a sudden, Muturengere got up, walked past us meters away, raised his head and disappeared into the bush. The mist rolled in and we descended the lower slopes of Karisimbi where we spotted a Golden Monkey.

Rwanda is a small hilly country and it is easy to move around. We drove south on our primate tour to Nyungwe National Park to track Colobus monkeys. They get their names not after the explorer but from the Greek word kolobos, meaning handicapped as they do not have a thumb. Thanks to its long cloak of black hair with white shoulder streaks, it is also called Judge Monkey!

On the hike to the Kamiranzovu waterfall we spotted a dark coated L’Hoest Monkey or mountain monkey furtively scurry on all fours through the dense undergrowth. From Uwinka Overlook we took the Igishigishigi Trail, named after the giant tree fern, to the Canopy Walkway, the first in East Africa. Built in three sections with the longest one stretching 90m and 57m above the forest floor, it’s narrow and shaky but gives unmatched views.

We didn’t have time for the longer Chimpanzee hike and returned to Kinigi in time for Kwita Izina 2018, where 23 gorillas born in the past year were being named. The massive gathering at the base of Volcanoes National Park wore a festive air with locals and volunteers waving Rwandan flags, dancing and cheering on.

Against a stunning backdrop of the volcanoes was a giant gorilla frame made of bamboo with an infant riding on its back. Headlining the event was South African pop duo Mafikizolo, who were also part of the celebrity namers that included sportsmen, ambassadors, businessmen and environmentalists.

Life came full circle as the unnamed newborns from the Isimbi family we spotted earlier got beautiful names in the Kinyarwanda dialect – Umuseke (dawn) and Izahabu (gold), named by female Arsenal star Alexandra Virina Scott. Fellow Arsenal legend and Cameroonian footballer Laureno Bisan Etamé-Mayer named his li’l gorilla from the Kwitonda family Ikipe (team).

Pop icon Akon couldn’t make it but his business partner and Malian philanthropist Samba Bathily named his newborn gorilla from the Igisha family Ineza (mercy), which he believed was needed for Africa and the world. Senegalese NBA star Amadou Gallo Fall had launched junior NBA in Kigali and his focus was on using the power of sport and values of the game. He named his baby gorilla from Musilikare family Kwiyongera (to increase).

Each namer had a personal angle. Dr Noeline Raondry Rakotoarisa, program chief at UNESCO, had been visiting Rwanda for the last 11 years and confessed each time she saw a new Rwanda because it was moving so fast! The geographic area of 686 biosphere reserves in 122 countries was home to over 256 million people, so her name for the Igisha family newborn was Imbaga (crowd). UN Special Envoy, President and CEO of the Asia Society and ex-Vice Chairman of the World Economic Forum Josette Sheeran named her baby gorilla from the Pablo family Umuryango (family).

English celebrity chef, food writer and eco campaigner Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, also VP of Flora & Fauna International UK had met the newborn of the Hirwa family just a week earlier and decided to name it Amatungo (plentiful livestock), the bedrock of Rwandan culture.

Peter Riedel, President and COO of electronics group Rhode Schwarz International, on his first trip to Africa, named his newborn Umusaruro (harvest). The final namer Madame Graca Machel, former First Lady of South Africa and Mozambique, named her Kwitonda newborn Urugori (crown).

The ceremony gave way to a moving environment-themed performance by a dance troupe. As world leaders applauded and the world cheered on, it was amazing to see how a tiny country was leading the way as a beacon for conservation. The genius of Rwanda was that it had created an international event out of a domestic population census! We headed to Serena Hotels at Lake Kivu for a lavish lakeside gala dinner with a private performance by Mafikizolo humming songs of Africa.

FACT FILE

Getting there
The national carrier Rwand Air flies direct from Mumbai to Kigali in 7 hrs four times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat). www.rwandair.com

Where to Stay
Kigali Marriott Hotel www.marriott.com
Serena Hotel Kigali & Lake Kivu www.serenahotels.com
One & Only Nyungwe House www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Gorillas Volcanoes Hotel, Ruhengeri

Entry
Only 96 permits are issued per day with each permit costing $1500. Visa on arrival costs $30. An East African combined visa covering Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania costs $100.

Must Do
Wildlife Tours Rwanda www.wildlifetours-rwanda.com
Gorilla trekking at Volcanoes National Park www.volcanoesnationalparkrwanda.com
Track Colobus, Golden and mountain monkeys at Nyungwe National Park
Spot the Big 5 at Akagera National Park
Kigali city tour with Go Kigali Tours, $60/person 9:30am-1pm, 2-6pm
Try the local ‘Question’ Coffee and Rwandan tea; eat local at Tamu Tamu
Shop for souvenirs like agasake (peace baskets)

For more info, www.visitrwanda.com

Authors: Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy. This article appeared on 13 January, 2019 in Deccan Herald newspaper.